Ceefax put Cayton at 4-6' yesterday morning. The weather locally was relatively calm with the breeze in W-NW, although I figured that the daytime may be spoiled by some onshore sea breezes. Maybe, just maybe, this evening could provide a wave at Skeg'.[HT 9.22pm]
I checked with Coogee after 4pm and they seemed confident of it being good for the evening push; although 4' seemed a little ambitious. Naips had had some surf on the morning tide, so all seemed in place to go. Got there at around 5.30 and it was crap to say the least. Woll was not a happy bunny! Decided to hang around and see if it improved [as ever], but even nearly an hour later it was not inspiring. One or two 'faces' had turned up by now and, gradually some signs of a wave did begin to show. By 7pm things had cleaned and built a bit and we were in. It was maybe a couple of foot at best, but for the first time since last year I was actually enjoying surfing here. I ended up getting out around 8.30, feeling a lot more content. I'd caught some waves, one in particular reminded me of that session at
Widdy last year; the first on my longboard, where everything seemed dialled in. There wasn't much power or speed to these waves though, and I could tell when we were nearing HT when I got dumped a couple of times on ever increasing steep take offs. The drive home was carried out in a lot more relaxed mode than I've had of late. Such is the power of an enjoyable surf.
posted by wollocks at 11:42 AM
