It's been 2 months since I last wet the board and I was worried it would show. Needn't have worried too much though. The East Coast has had some swell over the last week/10 days and I know that I must have missed a couple of days which would have been really good; work though had got in the way. HT at Skeg' was around 1.45pm and so I timed my arrival for around noon. A reasonably high tide due as well, bigger than my last visit, although as it turned out it was only 1-2 foot at best. Twas clean though, although you could tell the swell was on it's last legs with the SW breeze obviously beginning to have an effect from the Wash, with some cross waves taking what impetus away. All said and done though I did get a couple of noteworthy rides in the 90 mins or so I was in, which was a couple more than I would have expected not that long ago! Met up with Naipsey on his sponge who had some fun closer in. The bottomline though was that the pleasure that is surfing has shone through again after a busy time of late, and a disturbing one just before. Maybe one day the peace that can be found beyond the shorebreak can be translated to the outer world!?
posted by wollocks at 5:46 PM