The text message from Naips yesterday morning read "2ft clean nicely lined up". What's a bloke to do but drop everything and make the most of it before another shortlived swell dies? And so it was for the second day on the bounce, I got in for a couple of hours at Skeggie. It's been a while since I've been able to do that regardless of where I was at the time; but nice all the same. I got there and was in by 12.45; about half an hour before high tide. Naips and 2 others were already in, and it was just as described. Sure, it was that bit smaller than Friday, but it was far tidier and looked a lot more comfortable to surf than you so often find here. The waves were nicely spread out and looked really inviting.
I quickly paddled out and immediately spun round to catch the first one that came my way, riding it sweetly down the line before pulling off to rejoin the others for some more. Naips was right, that one did have my name on it. Another such ride followed swiftly after and it looked as if this would be one of those memorable sessions. Sadly though, things began to drop off after high tide and was all but flat by the time I got out a couple of hours later. Even the spectating seagulls on the beach groynes looked less interested than they had done. All the same, I felt a lot better than I had done the day before; so the health benefits of this activity seem to be more justified than normal.
posted by wollocks at 4:31 PM
