Boxing Day 26th December 2001
I'd reckoned that there'd be a wave today at Skeg', but couldn't have imagined how good it would be! Ceefax had put Cayton at 3-5' but messy because of a NW breeze. That isn't normally a bad thing down here although local weather reports put it more W and lighter. Had intended to get there around 1pm, 2-2.5 hours before HT, but got delayed and ended up arriving around 2.15pm; this also after a series of text messages and a call from Naips. The final text put it at 2-3' and nicely lined up clean(ish) sets. When we arrived [Suz & Ben came along to get some fresh air], it had built some and was as an impressive sight as I've ever seen there. The average set wave was a good head high plus and it was pumping. Christmas Day had been as good too, but then I had been otherwise occupied.

The cross rips were a problem though and I had a 'mare of a time trying to break through out back. I first went in around 2.35, but it was several attempts and a good 30 mins+ before I got it timed just right and made it! What had been on the verge of being a disasterous session suddenly came alive. There wasn't a great deal of daylight time left but the next half to three quarters of an hour were exhilarating. It was great just being out there with the others on what was the busiest day [6-7 of us at most] I'd seen for ages. I missed a couple and pulled off at take off on another before getting a beaut' which took me at a speed not often experienced here along the face before getting whacked on the head and off by a sneaky lip which caught me unawares. No probs though, the paddle back into position was easier now as the tide had slackened off, and I finished off by getting a smaller one in to shore to call it a day.

Yesterday 27th December 2001
It was probably a long shot but I popped back today on the off chance of a small end of swell session late on. Cayton was now 2-3' which is borderline for us but why not?! I was in by 2.45 but it was clear this wasn't going to be the greatest surf. The tide was obviously a higher one today as it was well in already, with HT around 4.30. It was only 1-2' at best but as I'd made the effort to get there.... I'd had enough after 45 mins or so with the waves proving extremely fickle to catch. Not only was the size down but the speed was too; set frequency was also poor. And so it was perhaps an achievement to catch any at all. Not to worry, it was good to check the grip factor on the newly cleaned and [cold] waxed deck, that I'd spent this morning doing after noticing of late how much like a bar of soap it had become.
posted by wollocks at 10:53 AM