The pull of the sea got the better of me. It's been an age [10 weeks!] since my last surf, a fact aggriavated by the need for total rest over the last 3-4 weeks, because of the ribs.

It wasn't totally inspiring on arrival although there was clearly a wave to be ridden. The breeze [NW] was cross-shore and tending to mess up the 2-3' swell, and so I got suited up. Conscious of the injury I did some extra warm-up's before going in. Paddling out was a relative 'mare. I felt totally out of shape when compared to my last action which had felt as strong as it'd ever been. Some work to do here I reckon!

Managed to get out in the end and was relieved to find that my take-off, drop and ride was as I'd left it back in the Spring. I was pleased to catch everything I went for; two in particular which saw me wander further up the nose, and get a hair parting from the lip too. Fatigue meant I called it a day after barely an hour, with more than an hour and a half to HT. The paddling had loosened somewhat too, but I can feel that working on the upper body strength is a priority.
posted by wollocks at 11:29 AM