I think this has been the longest period I've had without a surf; probably since the early days before I succumbed to the Skeg Experience late on in 1999. You'll have to check out the ancient archives to confirm this as I can't be bothered ;o)

Friday 18th April : LT 13.51
My [and Suz's and Ben's for that matter !] agony was ended on Good Friday, a short while after we arrived in Bude for a week and a bit's stay 'back home'. We'd travelled as far as Okehampton the day before, with a stop at Stonehenge on the way down. Inspiration? Either way the forecasts had been promising all week, both surf and weather. We weren't disappointed. We had hoped to meet up with an old OTL sparring partner, Andy C. Sadly he had had car troubles and was unable to get down from Bristol, which was a pity considering the way-overhead surf rolling in. Throw in some unseasonably warm sunny weather and offshore winds; and the recipe was for some fun. Widemouth [surprise-surpirse] was our choice of break.

Sure I was a little apprehensive considering the time out I'd had recently, but with recent improvements in my fitness and weight levels, by the time I'd paddled out reasonably easily around midday, this was largely forgotten. Ben and Suz settled for some white water fun in the meantime; conditions being a bit too heavy for any further adventure on their part. Both though enjoyed a good hour and a half before getting in.

Not unsurprisingly it took me a little while to get dialled in to the pace of things. Early take offs were poorly timed and I failed to get anything in the first half hour or so. Gradually though I got myself up to speed and managed a series of take offs-drops-and very short exhilarating rides. These tended to be ended abrubtly, probably by my lack of recent practice, and with one or two by energetic wipeouts. One in particular later threatened my being able to take to the water again during the following week, which involved me being knocked off my board before rejoining contact; on the rail, during the customary spin cycle underwater! Luckily I don't think any ribs were broken, but even now, some 9 days later; it's still pretty sore. Despite this injury, I continued in the water for another hour or so before calling it a day and taking some rest in the afternoon sunshine. I could feel the tensions lifting.....

Saturday 19th April : LT 14.31
Although the prevailing wind was still offshore today [E-SE], the strength of it had increased which wasn't going to help with the swell starting to drop off. The weather otherwise was still cheerful if a shade cooler. We decided to give it until after low tide before going to Widdy again to give things a chance to improve with the help of the push. To be honest it didn't really as a strongish cross-shore rip only added to the problems caused by the stiff breeze and smaller waves. Still it was water time and Ben had at least managed to get out back with me. Both our wave counts though were neglible. In fact other than the wave I caught to get in, I couldn't honestly say I'd had a ride of note. Funny how that injury I'd picked up the day before felt that bit sorer today eh?

Sunday 20th April : LT 15.11
There had been talk of a bit of an OTL meet up today, but with the weather cooling off and clouding over, this seemed to have been abandonned. Not a problem of course, as the chance for surfing a new break as was on the cards, can always come at a later date. Conditions locally suggested a small clean wave as the breeze had lightened a lot from the day before despite veering more southerly. All three of us were suited up and in at Widemouth at low tide. By which time it did appear as if the swell may actually pick up some which not many, if any, had predicted until tomorrow. Not that I was complaining of course as i was due a good overall session. The injury though was niggling as I paddled out, and I was disappointed that Ben on this occassion didn't get there too. It was a pity too as I feel it was within his reach, a comfy 2-3 foot and clean, with the potential of helping his 'game' on a lot. Still, he has time on his side, and an obvious taste to get into this more and more, particularly when we finally get down to Kernow ourselves.

However, I caught a quick succession of waves from the outset; mainly rights, and for the first time in a very long time, I felt as if I was in a rythmn and couldn't put a foot wrong. The pain in the ribs seemed to be easing too! Throw in my first ever 'floater' on my back hand to boot, and I thought I'd gone to heaven. Things just surely couldn't get any better, could they? Well, yes they can. It's a strange thing confidence. Only the day before, I honestly thought that turning right was impossible. Damn this goofy foot thing, everything seems left or nothing. Now... Now I was paddling out, swivelling round, and picking waves seemingly at random. Then came my wave of the day.

Well into the session, I'm not sure how far in as I'd made a point of not wearing any watch since Saturday; I spotted a set approaching that did seem to have a little more size to it. I paddled out a bit further in anticipation as did one or two of the others out there. I let the first couple or three waves by, which got picked off creating a nice space for me to take off into. Better still, it was beginning to peel left I saw checking over my shoulder. I timed it sweetly taking the bottom turn with a bit more aggression than normal which found right in the pocket at the right moment. I could feel that little extra speed under my feet and there was no way I was going to let this one go by making any silly mistakes. As it transpired, the rest of the ride disappeared into a blur although Suz and Ben had seen it also and say that I carved it admirably. One or two of the other guys out there made similar comments about it, which I am not only truly humbled by, but inspired.

The rest of the session was attacked with vigour until adrenaline could no longer mask the soreness I was feeling in the rib area. When I got out it is fair to say I was pumped, and genuinely shocked that I'd been [able] surfing for three hours. I realise too, that my achievements are relatively small compared to many far more talented surfing bretheren out there. But at that moment in time I'd defy anyone not to at least appreciate the lengths I have gone to, to reach them.

Tuesday 22nd April : LT 16.36
After my exertions on the Sunday, I'd decided to sit out any water time yesterday [Mon 21/4], leaving Ben and Suz to have a session in the small onshore mush. Today looked more promising, with the breeze switching back to offshore mode with the real hope of a shortlived swell, confirmed by Parky when he gave us a ring during the morning with an update from SJ. The weather too was warming up a little again. With it threating to go flat over the next couple of days. My willpower to rest the ribs was destined to be put on hold; wasn't it?!

Another quick check of Widdy on our way back to the cottage for lunch was almost enough to swing it for me; although I kept these thoughts close to my chest for now. A decision was made to go to the beach [Widdy] around 2.30, and see how the land [read:sea!] laid then. Ben began suiting up, although Suz was going to stay out today; then I cracked. How could I not? The sun was shining, the swell was picking up clearly and was clean....sod the chest, and the slight cold, what is a chap starved of surf for months to do but go in!? As a concession I gave my new hood an outing to keep that bit warmer, and quickly suited up before advised not too ! ;o)

Turned out to be another inspired decision as I picked up where I'd left off on Sunday. OK, there were no memorable lefts as such, but this turning right and going backhand does now seem a lot easier. Ride after ride followed and the confidence has now returned. I wonder too how I'd have got on without the injury, indeed without one or two other niggles I haven't bothered to mention. Oooo the mind boggles! In the meantime I'll content myself with this, albeit shorter [by a few minutes!] session than that of Sunday. And look forward to working towards 100% fitness later on. I got out just short of 3 hours this time and had again been disappointed that Ben hadn't got out there with me as had been the case on Sunday also. I was glad though that he had enjoyed his surf, and pleased that he'd enjoyed watching after from the cliff top vantage point. Suz too, although not happy at not being able to go in, had been entertained from the shore.

Wednesday 23rd April : HT 11.12
The promised flat spell duly arrived, well it was no more than a foot when Suz and I wandered down to Widemouth Manor to have a check after breakfast. Sure it was clean, but I was ready to give the ribs a rest today if possible. Ben though was keen to keep up his 'in every day' record despite assurances that what swell there was flatten off even more at high tide. Despite this and with the weather ever improving, we put the gear into car and set off. Widdy was flattening off as I'd suggested when we got there around 10.30, and despite protests [not mentioning any names!] I moved on with a sneaking suspicion that Sandymouth may be worth a look even if only for future reference. It had been a long time since we'd been there, and to be honest I wasn't sure myself what we'd find. As it turned out there was a small wave there when we arrived, and I did begin to wonder as we sat and watched a couple of lads who already out when we got there; that it might improve as the tide dropped and moved back on to the flatter beach.

It didn't really, although there was enough to encourage Ben to get in after we'd had a bite to eat which did give him some much needed confidence boosting, after he caught a couple of tricky little waves early on. Importantly, although small, they weren't like the many many white water waves he'd been getting by with up to now on this trip. You could see in the way he sat on his board out there too, that a lot that seemed to have been forgotten was flooding back. Now all he needs to do is move on from this, and rekindle the nerve he found particularly last summer through to his last session at Huttoft last November. I feel this will come when he finds the strength to be able to punch through that last breaking wave on the way out, and also learns how to duck dive. Whatever. My attempt to resist going in crumbled too though. Although I might just as well have not done so. It's no coincidence that the rib felt rather sore also. By this time it had dropped off completely and so we all settled to just enjoying the nice weather and comforted ourseleves with the thought that here was a beach we surf at again with confidence.

Friday 25th April :HT 14.08
I'd actually been able to take a break yesterday as the forecast couple of foot and clean wave courtesy of Spotlight had totally failed to manifest. The forecast for today had been mixed too. Spotlight had it a foot at best and clean, while SJ reckoned 2-4 and increasing later. The weather also wasn't promising. We'd arranged to meet with Parky some time today, although exactly where was left till the last minute. I was late up, but still decided to wander down to the Manor to have a gander for myself, despite the iffy weather. I had to rub my eyes when I saw easily 2+ and clean waves with lines out to the distance! Parky didn't believe me either when I called him as it was wet and windy where he was at that time somewhere between Liskeard and NQ. [he was on the way to Snugg for a fitting] The big question though was would the weather detiriorate?

We decided to meet at Widdy [where else?!] around 12.30, but as the time neared it was becoming obvious that it was starting to mush up there with the wind now more southerly and increasing. With protests from again un-named sources, I decided to quickly check out Summerleaze before Parky arrived to see if it was at least more sheltered there; it was. After a quick chat with Parky when he arrived, we took the Summerleaze option. By the time we were all suited up and in around 1.30 there was very definitely a pleasant and cleanish 1-2' right coming into the harbour; with a lumpier larger mixture of lefts and rights further out. I was quickly into a couple of the nearer, smaller rights to loosen up; before joining Parky who had gone out to the lumpier stuff off Barrel Rock.

I was surprised with the relative ease in which I managed this, more due to the rib, than the knowledge of the rip the river provides. When out there I went on to enjoy sharing some generally helter skelter rides with Parky, who had one in particular which he rode all the way back inside in amongst the others. Bit of a paddle back but did he care? Soon after I took off on a left a bit closer in that I would have preferred which required me to head in towards the pool to avoid coming to grief on the small fingers of reef. It did though give me the chance to see how Ben and Suz were doing. Suz was chatting with someone onshore, whilst Ben was giving lessons to a young brother and sister on his and board. I passed on my board to him to have a play with and learned that he had been having a whale of time on the smaller stuff close in. Suz too had been making the most of her last chance of surf for a while at least. Parky soon joined us before we went back in for a short while. The lumpier stuff wasn't playing ball so much now so we settled for playing with the smaller rights inside till we called time around 3.45pm.
posted by wollocks at 5:21 PM