Kicked off on Saturday morning [19th] with a couple of sessions in better than expected 2' and reasonably clean waves. Both Parky and me agreed later that these proved to be the key sessions for us. We both managing, following early assessments and coaching, to make progress in relaxed carefree frames of mind. For the first time ever, I found it within me to cross step up the board rather than shuffle, and get further than ever before; 5 tantalisingly close to the nose, on more than one occasion. Well happy with that I can tell you. Drop knee turns are now an option, though a lot of practice needs to be done on my part to make them smoother and more efficient.

The surf grew larger and heavier by Saturday afternoon and personally I struggled, failing to get out. At this point, the stuff of myths began, with Parky snapping a leash, and me getting an almighty working over on a larger set wave inside. Tombstone comes to mind so I was told after. But, coupled with a similar experience to begin with on Sunday morning [20th] it became clear that a good part of the problem lay with the width of my board. Glaringly obvious in hindsight, but with my short arms as well, my paddling suffers despite a reasonable technique. A bit of it for sure lies with lack of water time, but I know my fitness isn't as bad as it can sometimes look as others often leave me behind when paddling out. A switch to a narrower board and I was out no probs, barring a little fatigue. Confidence and belief restored I enjoyed the remainder of Sunday morning in as large surf as I've ever been in, managing to pick up one thumping right in the process, and a trashing next time on as well.

We ended the weekend at an unusually quiet and clean Western which proved great fun until yours truly managed not only to break a board in a totally innocuous fashion, but manage to do it to Adam's board! So innocuous was the incident that I couldn't even tell you when or how it happened. He'd kindly offered a swap of boards which I couldn't resist. He promptly started to do things with my board, that I can only aspire to, proving that the rider is as much an issue as the equipment! [Poor workman-blaming tools..no illusions on my part] Anyway, conscious of this not being my stick, I was despite every encouragement from Adam being ultra cautious. I wasn't going to risk making the wrong wave selection and getting into anything that could end in a heavy wipeout. Parky will no doubt recall that very steep set wave I got into 20 yrds too late! :o) So I managed a couple of reasonably sedate rides, before catching a longer left which I hopped out of just before the flagged section of beach. No great dramas, some white water to negotiate back out and swap boards back. Lo, it's discovered there's a crack the width of the pin tail behind the mid fin box under the leash.

From that point my heart's not in it and I get out mortified :o( Here's this guy who has helped me find a way forward with my surfing all weekend, something I know I will benefit from from now on; and I go and trash his board. B0llox. I am grateful for his re-assurances and insistance that it's just one of those things etc etc. But I've only ever had 2 boards in the 7 years I've been surfing because any more frequent changes and/or additions has not been option. As a result I tend to treat them with more care than may benefit my own progress, not so much as picking up a small ding. Sh1t happens I know. And I'll get over this in time and repay the guy one way or another. But at the moment...I need to get back in and bury a ghost, quick.

posted by wollocks at 3:08 PM