Poor judgement on my part meant I missed out yesterday on some good surf. Frustration from Weds and disappointment on Friday lead to me opting not to trust better opinion. Cfax had had Cayton at 2-4' but messy and with local weather forecasts giving varying wind from North round to offshore, I decided to stay at home and get some more bits done to the house. Naips' text in the evening telling of solid 3-4' and clean in the run up to mid ebb, reminded me I should return to a more optimistic disposition.

So, this morning when I saw that Cayton was still 2-3' and clean, I knew it'd be worth a shout. A couple of text exchanges with Naips clinched it and by 11am I was in just before HT [11.23] in similar waist to shoulder clean waves fanned by a gentle offshore. It took me half an hour to get into any kind of rythmn, after which I began to get dialled in and catch one or two pleasant waves to get the confidence up. The lack of recent action showed though as after another hour or so the shoulders began to feel it and I was missing more than I'd prefer.

This coincided with a slight lull which gave me time to regroup at which time I noticed a nice left peak developing a little further north along the beach. The paddle over paid off and I got into a series of rides one after another. This period went on for half an hour or so after which time I made my back over to Naips and Russ who were into a consistent spell. Another good call on my part as this lead to a purple patch of my own where I seemed to get into everything I went for. I'd draw short of calling this an epic session for me though, if only for my lack of 'match fitness' and mainly patchy form with wave selection etc. However, this was just what the doctor ordered, and crucial to get me back into the right frame of mind in readiness for my weekend west in a fortnight.
posted by wollocks at 6:12 PM