A bit later than planned, but I can honestly say that I was glad I got in early yesterday evening. Arrived around 5, about an hour and a half before low tide to find a 2-3' cleanish wave despite the state of tide. There was still an onshore sea breeze of sorts, but not enough to spoil things as then. I took two or three shots on the digi as record which will be added to the photo link on the index page shortly.

There was one other surfer in as I got changed who was clearly enjoying conditions [He features in one of the shots]. On entering the sea, it was immediately obvious that there was a bit more punch to the waves than I'd experienced of late. So I could well believe Naips' earlier report; though hearing of the odd 6 footer was perhaps a little adrenaline-induced. As a consequence it did take me a few minutes to adjust mindset and get dialled in. That said, I soon caught my first ride and was chuffed at the speed in it which allowed me that feeling I had more time to do things.

There then followed a period of being able to boost the wave count in good time as conditions seemed to improve. The breeze did appear to lighten even more, though the last throes of the receeding tide clearly took the edge off the quality of the wave for a while. Nonetheless there was some fun to be had and as time passed I was joined my several more surfers. In fact it was positively crowded [8-10] by the time I got around 7.30, when the wave had seemed to deteriorate after a short, almost glassy spell.

It's a long time since I've seen those sort of numbers at any spot along this stretch of coast. Though there are plenty probably reading this who dream of having so few in their own local breks eh?
posted by wollocks at 4:06 PM