The fair weather f[r]iends have been bleating about the recent unseasonably wet weather while trying to square this with drought conditions in certain parts. All I can say is that if it is responsible for another swell this week and giving me and Ben the chance to get in twice then "What's the problem?"

Trying to juggle work with surf has been tricky at best, with everything seemingly conspiring to deny a stress free time. Yesterday was no exception when we ventured over to the North Shore at Skeg' to continue where we left off from last Tuesday. This latest swell started to show late up on Monday and was quite a beast by the day after by all accounts; Naips and some others confirming this as we all congregated outside the recently opened Xsite Skate Park yesterday evening.

Sandilands as suspected was blown out by a stiff, but dropping N-NW breeze; hence the choice of venue. The wave we found though was better than expected, if a little messy, with sets showing in a solid 2-3' range. However signs were that as we neared the mid tide push there would be improvement.

Ben and I soon discovered that there was quite a crosshore rip running though which annoyingly tends to take the edge off any session imo. Such was the speed of it that on the beach, Suz and Charlie [the dog] were having to walk normally to keep up. Even so, in the hour or so we were in we both managed to do enough to shake out a few more cobwebs in our quest to get match fit for the surf-ari in about 4 weeks time. My best ride came at the end of the session with a banzai effort which I decided to ride in. Thoughts of today and a cleaner session already coming to the fore.

For the first time in a long while everything seemed to play into my [our] hands with an unexpected band of rain locally delaying some scheduled outdoor work. The plan had been for another evening session over at Sandilands with [yet] another mad post-work dash. However when it became clear that the weather wasn't going to dry out soon this morning, the glaring opportunity to get in sooner suddenly came into view.

Hurriedly then, but in more relaxed frame of mind, Ben and I sorted out the still wet gear and set off to get in an hour or so after the morning high tide [10ish]. A quick check on arrival didn't inspire on first sight, but soon signs of better things appeared and any thoughts of shooting over to Skeg evapourated. The light variable breeze was quickly easing to virtually nothing and as the tide receded quickly back onto the banks, some cleaner sets started showing. Intermittent drizzle persisted to further the chances of my [delayed] scheduled work being cancelled altogether too.

Ben as ever was first in though it was me who snagged the first wave of the day almost as soon as I settled into the saddle a minute or so later. For the first time since the autumn all the elements felt right technique-wise, and when Ben took off into his first right which carried him shorewards at speed, we just knew this was going to be one of those good days.

For 20-25 minutes we took turns to catch/cheer on the other, our antics providing some kind of entertainment for a handful of brave souls on shore. Then having nicely pulled into another solid wall of water Ben was dislodged from his board as the wave closed out abruptly. Nothing unusual in that until it became apparent that his board was heading towards shore without him! Happily it transpired to be no more than an unraveled knot joining his leash to the board and we were soon back on it.

The next half-three quarters of an hour we continued as before enjoying that feeling of rhythm between man and board you strive for. The waves had cleaned up sufficiently to allow the period between them to take effect making the take-off that bit easier. I'd switched back to having the fin at the front of the box which may also have had an influence.

With the time now approaching 1pm I'd begun to think in terms of going and checking for messages with regard work. Now though there was real temptation to keep searching for 'one more wave', in the same vein as the old saying of 'tomorrow never comes'! However the decision was made for me when yet another ride ended and it was my turn to part company with board!

I'd ridden the wave well enough until attempting to cutback and change direction back onto the back hand; which I carelessly left trailing too far behind me and so tripped myself up! I fell back into the face as said board took the full force of the crumbling wave in the opposite direction. I felt a sharper than usual tug on the leash...and then nothing. As I surfaced I saw the board being swept inside in the whitewater and one son smiling at me on his way back out, obviously amused at my wipeout. Commendably though, on seeing I was no longer attached to board he made sure I was OK [I was] and set off on a wave to rescue it instead.

I swam ashore and joined him to assess the damage to my leash and see if it was repairable. It wasn't and so we decided to make our way back to the car and consider the options. As we opened it up to the phone rang which confirmed that my work obligations were over for the day. Good timing or what?! Even so, and on finding I had got the spare leash we decided to quit while ahead. A final check seemed to back up this decision as the swell by now did appear to be dropping right off.

I wonder if Naips and co are going to miss out later on...? Hope not!
posted by wollocks at 3:47 PM