Apologies for later than normal posting post-surf as I've been experiencing problems uploading with Blogger. Ben and I did indeed get over to Sandilands on Friday afternoon and enjoyed a return to some surfing action. It was a day of firsts on reflection: the first time Boris had served his purpose on the east coast, the first surf since
June 1st on the east coast; indeed our first surf since mid August in Cornwall.
I'd opted to go later rather than earlier, timing our arrival for about an hour before low tide. Though not the ideal state of tide, the breeze was forecast to drop off to very light and I was banking on the swell to pick up some more on the turn. As it was conditions were good enough with plenty of clean wave to make it worthwhile on arrival.
We were soon changed and in having both opted for fins set at the back of the box for speed. This was perhaps the wisest choice as the receding tide was making timing awkward to say the least, requiring plenty of paddling to get into them. Hence why it took us both 15 -20 minutes to catch any sort of notable wave. Once wired though we were soon up to speed and picking and choosing between the mellow rights and lefts, and the odd rogue bomb close in.
It was around 3.15 when Naips announced his arrival in typical enthusiastic and vocal fashion. A true character on this stretch of coast! He joined the logging crew before opting to sponge as low tide took a hold, by which time Ben and I hit a nice spell and sequence of waves each.
Ironically as the tide did begin to flood again, conditions deteriorated markedly which encouraged Ben to call it time after only an hour a quarter in. I soon followed when it became clear the best had been had, and was unlikely to change before dark. Then came the next 'first' as my return to Boris was marked with a mug of hot choc made my Junior himself. Wonders will never cease.
posted by wollocks at 5:24 PM
