It seems an age and indeed is an age as missed opportunities, injuries and other pressing committments have prevented me from not just getting in to the sea; but christening the new Bear!

Well hopefully that is about to be put right for the next 8-9 days as Boris is being loaded up ready to travel west tomorrow. It's not the now usual overnight trip as we've decided to amble down during the day tomorrow. But with any luck and judgement we may be able to get in for an evening surf when we get to Poundstock.

The plan is to stop off in Bideford en route so that Suz can get to see a wood engraving exhibition, while Ben and me walk the hound and refuel.

On Saturday we're headed to Camborne for the Pirates last game of the season, though whether we head to Gwith or such like on the way remains to be seen. We'll play it by ear.

Then on Sunday Parky is due to head up our way on his way back to Newton Abbot which will be great. We last met back in August when we ended up at Watergate at a time I was testing a Bear for potential purchase. Either way it will encourage the surf mindset which is something my life is crying out for at present.

Beyond that we'll see how things pan out....
posted by wollocks at 3:44 PM

Time got the better of me today and so I didn't get a chance to get over to the coast. Pity, as it has been a lovely autumn's day if a little chilly. The breeze may have been a factor though, but as if on cue, just as dusk hove into view it dropped right off to nothing.
posted by wollocks at 4:48 PM

A text from Naips this morning reminded me of the possibilities of at last christening the new board. I'd half had an eye on the charts and had noticed that a low could track northwards this week, but mind has been on other things. As ever!

Anyway, a check around does suggest a brief window tomorrow, with better prospects for Friday onwards into the weekend. If everything allows tomorrow and I can spare time from searching for some form of employment to take me into January, then Boris can be loaded and put on standby. If not then Friday & Sunday are pencilled in. Maybe even get Jnr to dip his toes again too if he's man enough ;o)
posted by wollocks at 11:03 AM

Mum's send off went well yesterday on a sunny and bright autumn morning, in contrast to the wet summers one we had for dad's.

For me personally the whole business has been harder emotionally this time
round. Initially I felt guilty about this until I figured out why this was
so. This wasn't just about losing Mum, the person who brought me into this
world; nor for being with her until the end-unlike Dad who caught us all
out. No. This was about the fact they are now both gone. Sure, they are now
back together and no doubt in better shape but they are not here at least in
a sense we relate to in the human state.

The service was as with Dads, and carried out with touching reverence by all
present. There was a good turnout of family, friends and neighbours; there
even being two representitives from the care home she was at in Stamford.
She'd made such an impression on them in such a short space of time.

I was finding it hard to control all the emotions but was composed by the
time it came for me to stand up front again. That was not so easy when we
followed her out on her way back to the cars and to Grantham, although I
didn't totally lose it. This was so different when compared to Dad's do and
again I couldn't figure out why...until I remembered on that day I'd been
occupied wheeling Mum around the grounds at the same stage. ;o)

Either way, by the time we were back at Hollands for tea and stickies and
then onto Mick's after that I was more my usual self. Sue, Ben, (friend) Dave and I then returned home and celebrated Mum's life by having a slap up meal at the
local pub.

Below are the words of Mum's Eulogy:

Today has a real sense of de ja vu, even so one or two here may not be aware
that I am Martin, Jessie's youngest son.

Experience you would think should make standing here before you so soon
after our last such get together that bit easier, shouldn't it? Well no it
doesn't.

Losing the person who physically brought you into this world unleashes a
whole new range of emotions hitherto hidden away deep within. Coming to
terms with these new found feelings will be achieved in time; it being the
greatest of all healers. This will be primarily because Mick and I were
there for Mum to complete the circle of life, supported so ably by Pam and
Sue at our own sides when the moment arrived. We at last in our eyes seemed
to do something right for her.

Born in Hendon, North London on October 1st 1922, Jessie Tyers was the
middle child of 3; the eldest her step brother Frank and a younger sister
Eileen. Here she spent her formative years and soon began to make an
impression. Glowing school reports tell of a "hard working, perservering
girl" who "wasted no time and made improvements every day". She excelled at
most subjects, particularly English & Arithmetic, and left school at 14 with
a post-education reference highlighting her conscientiousness and likelihood
to do well at clerical work.

Not unsurpisingly she became a junior clerk at Fowlers in Cricklewood in
November 1936, before following the family 'trade' so to speak and ending up
at the Broad Street offices of London Midland & Scottish Railways in the
City.

Away from work, she threw herself into the local church community at St
Johns also in Hendon. Here she was to meet her future husband Ron Woollatt,
whom she married in June 1943; a union that was to last through thick and
thin until cruelly cut short of their 64th Anniversary only 4 short months
ago.

That they got that far was down to a great deal of teamwork and effort and
was at times tested to it's utmost limit. There was also a degree of luck,
or maybe fate some may say. A swap of shifts with a colleague saw Ron off
work when the factory he worked at, took a direct hit during a German air
raid in the Blitz. On another occasion while they both walked home one
evening, Ron spotted some ultra hot shrapnel falling from the sky and pushed
Jessie aside and to the ground to save her from serious injury. She no doubt
gave him a tongue lashing for that one; to start with at least!

Her true strengths really shone though when in 1950, Ron had to have a then
life threatening operation to remove a TB infected kidney. With him unable
to work for 12 months and there being a 2 year old child to support, she
used all her financial acumen and no small amount of dogged determination to
somehow see them all through it. Bear in mind, there was no Welfare State as
we know it to help them out then.

As Mick and I know too well, these events invariably have a long lasting
effect. As a consequence, it wasn't until the family had moved to Basildon
in 1961 and settled there, that the cloud of that trying period finally
lifted. I'd arrived by then which wasn't a coincidence I hasten to add.

There, Jessie emersed herself in the social scene at St Martins from it's
birth in 1962 until they finally grasped the nettle of moving from Basildon
in 1993 to be nearer to their family here in Colsterworth. She became
involved with a multitude of activities, using her clerical skills to take
on various Treasurer-type roles, whether with the Mothers Union, Womens
Fellowship, PCC or such like.

Jessie, or Woolly as she was affectionately known; along with Ron, became a
bedrock to that church and many friends were made and kept even when their
allegiances switched to this St Johns, and she continued to get stuck in
here.

She would do anything that needed doing and must have covered miles in
cleaning and polishing. Wherever she was, there was laughter and she would
always diffuse some tense situation with a casual line from her rather
refined sense of humour. Ask me later about Anne's Knicker Money; or Mick
about the Teapot on Christmas Eve when the laugh was on her!

Above all else Woolly was Mum and Grandma and was intensely proud of her
family. She also in effect became a surrogate grandma to many children in
her time, such was her generosity and determination not to let them go
without as she no doubt had to in past times.

One of mum's strengths, or traits, depending on which side of the particular
fence you stood on at any given moment, was her ability to have the last
word...and with such effect with, or later without a full voice for the last
20 years or so!

I suppose when younger I often resented this; name me any teenage male who
has just been told he is in the wrong being able to walk away from the scene
contentedly accepting this new found discovery! But the truth of the matter
is, she was right...(almost always)!

Yes she could be stubborn and yes change wasn't always embraced as swiftly
as it could have been at times, but then all the above will go along way to
explaining why. The stubborness may even have contributed to her eventual
downfall, but beneath that was a faith that was stronger than most of us
could ever dream of.

We four witnessed that first hand, and it was Hilary's Blessing on that
fateful evening, that was the catalyst for such a remarkable transformation
in her demeanour. Her reward? To be re-united with her true-ist and only
soul mate and Mum was at peace with the world once more.
posted by wollocks at 1:01 PM

It is with a heavy heart that I pass on the sad news that my mum finally
lost her battle with PSP and it's complications last Wednesday (Oct 3) a
couple of days after her 85th birthday.

I would have posted sooner only on the morning of her death and oblivious to news of her deterioration, our land line and consequently, Internet connection was literally ripped down by a road traffic accident outside our house. Quite how a lorry can lose control in a 30mph zone, cross the central line, take out a parked van-help it along the road for 200yds and fold it in half, and scatter debris the like of which you normally only see on a race track is beyond me. Blacking out at the wheel and then being left chatting with the police having been checked over the by the paramedics does however provide suspicions....Either way it has taken a week to put right and so here I am able to link up once more.

Sue and I had planned to visit her on that day as after our visit on her birthday it was clear that time was now not on our side, or mums for that matter. We arrived around 2pm not aware that the hospital had been frantically trying to contact us and/or my brother that morning to let us know her demise was imminent.

My brother works nights and with no-one else in his house, hadn't heard any phone ringing. We of course were cut off by the time they'd switched their
attentions to us and they hadn't been passed any mobile phone number details
when my mum had been transferred to them.

We were brought quickly up to speed, saw for ourselves how bad things had got and contacted my brother and his wife to get them there asap.

Her blood pressure had dropped a long way and her breathing was laboured. At
times she was agitated but our presence did seem to ease this even if she
couldn't communicate. After a couple of hours or so we called her local
vicar to see if she could come and give mum the Last Rites. Within 30 mins
she was there and giving her her Blessing and said a few prayers. Mum's
whole demeanour changed before our eyes and she visibly began to relax with
her breathing noticeably steadying. Slowly the breathing became more and
more shallow and her eyes began to close as if in sleep. This stood out as
the PSP had prevented normal eye blinking in these last few weeks.

Half an hour after her blessing at around 6.50pm I physically felt her slip away as she held on to my hand till the end. It must have been a relief after all the
suffering she'd gone through of late. It was perhaps the most moving
experience of my life to date and something I'll never forget.

Tears have been shed but we are fine and will be in good shape in time for
her cremation next Tuesday. At least she is back with Dad now.
posted by wollocks at 10:28 AM

It's been a while once more and with reason, sadly not for a lack of waves although they have been as rare as rocking horse waste!

At the beginning of September my mums well being began to slide into the cause for concern category. Slowly at first but with ever increasing speed her tenure at the care home became eventually unsustainable. Quite why this occurred is open to debate as, although her PSP was always going to be a factor eventually, it just didn't seem possible that things could alter quite so dramatically.

From about mid July her appetite lessened and there would be the odd 'bad' day, though nothing unmanageable. However, as we moved into the 9th month of the year this refusal of sustenance increased, including fluids, to the point where the situation moved beyond the care home's remit until given clearance otherwise.

Mick and I had had a meeting in late August with Social Services which had raised our concerns regarding their view of mums status the moment it began. The opening salvo being along the lines of "have you sold/valued your mothers bungalow?" even before any mention of her well being or future care!!!! Our immediate riposte as to whether she'd been medically assessed yet, really caught them off balance and set an uneasy tone.

A week later and a visit to mum by Suz and I turned into something quite different, when we discovered that a medical assessor from the local authority would be there soon to do just that. All well and good, but we should have been informed of this arrangement by them so a relative could be present too, and certainly wasn't expecting anything for another week at least. Just as well we'd gone off chance then eh?!

The assessment wasn't the most pleasant experience I could wish for anyone, but wasn't cause to suspect anything untoward. We didn't like the 'talking over mum as if she wasn't there' kind of thing, but in hindsight the alternative of not involving her didn't seem a better solution either. The conclusion was inconclusive-borderline is it's best description then and now, with a Community Psychiatric Nurse being decided upon as the next step.

Mum meanwhile persisted with her refusal of (most) food and fluids and added some odd behaviour into the mix as well; namely deliberately falling out of her chair and undressing to name but two. This eventually lead to the CPN calling time and rattling some cages to get her moved to an Assessment Unit at Grantham Hospital as an emergency.

But why the dramatic change in behaviour which appeared to centre around a now irrational fear that her bungalow was going to be sold behind her back to pay for her care. Until then the subject although broached was always done so without giving her cause to worry. There was always assurance that it wouldn't be sold behind her back. Indeed the intention was to involve her fully as and when it would become necessary. But after that meeting and having done the sums conservatively, even in the worse case scenario, it didn't look as if the property would have been needed to be sold to fund any care; quite the contrary.

Had a third party sown some seeds along these lines, whether with good intent or otherwise? Difficult to point any specific fingers but you have to wonder what if? The coincidence in timing is too clear to dismiss totally.

Either way, she has now been there for about a fortnight and has included a brief move to the Emergency Assessment Unit last week for a day, which didn't in the end seem to serve any real purpose.

After our visit yesterday on her 85th Birthday it has now come to the stage where we are now counting down an unknown period of time until it's time to say goodbye to her too. She now clearly has the look of a doomed woman, made not that much easier by our having to consent to a DNR course of action when (not if) the time comes.

2007 can't finish quick enough in my book, and with the prospect of a family feud stewing from another branch, it's fair to say the wait will feel that much longer than it should be!!!
posted by wollocks at 12:15 PM

Yesterday saw an informal gathering at Sandilands of the Lincs Surf Club. Everything was there except even the remotest sign of a wave, otherwise an enjoyable time was had in as laid back an atmosphere as you'd expect.
posted by wollocks at 10:00 AM

Somehow forgot to mention that the on our return a couple of weeks ago, a 'Dear John' was awaiting me from that food factory. The one that interviewed me for 2.5 hours for a job they put forward to me, having applied for something totally different.

Naturally disappointed though purely for the money which would have been of use. The long days and 4 on/ 4 off pattern would undoubtedly have got to me in the end and besides, how could I work for a company that made mini pasties with pork & carrot???!!!! Sacrilege!
posted by wollocks at 2:08 PM

There was a moment last Sunday morning (Aug 5) which just about summed up how dreadful 2007 has been for the Wolls on the whole. The day before we'd enjoyed an adrenaline-fuelled couple of hours or so at Godrevy (Jnr in particular!), before moving on to Camborne to see our beloved Pirates take on Leicester in a pre-rugby season friendly. All in all a feeling of contentment prevailed as we drove back up to Poundstock with a glorious evening sunset to enjoy, and the promise of some more big waves the next morning.

We rose reasonably sharpish by our holiday-mode standards, and made our way the short distance to Widemouth. As expected the large, clean swell was still there and pounding the shore with intent. Ben and me suited up hurriedly though with an air of nervous expectation, no doubt built up by the respect that such conditions command. Waterside it was clear that the need to evade the heavy shore dump was the first priority; beyond that, then the paddle out would be arduous but not beyond our capabilities. Ben more so aware of this, after his exploits at Godrevy less than 24 hours earlier.

Patience and timing would be in order and, as is the way of things, a gap appeared to arise which we pounced upon. For a couple of minutes we seemed to be on the verge of a breakthrough even if the secondary shoredump hampered progress. Then a 'rogue' loomed in front of us and all my efforts to see it past came to no avail leaving me spat out and on my butt in the shallows.

.
Ben had missed the worst of it, but when I made to retrieve my board the vision was soul-destroying. The 'old faithful' lay strangely in the swirling water as if something was amiss. The reality quickly dawned as I began to comprehend the vision relayed by my eyes. My Hobie templated 9'3" was for all intents and purposes now in two pieces; completely snapped just ahead of the fin box, and held together by only a slither of the decks' outer glassing

Irrational thoughts flooded in as I contemplated the remainder of the holiday sat on the beach, watching others enjoy the waves without me. Maybe I was being punished for some reason? Perhaps fate was getting 'her' own back for that wipeout the previous Tuesday (Jul 31), when my back foot failed to make firm contact with the deck of Ben's board (we'd swapped minutes before), and sent a 9'+ trajectory towards an out-coming female surfer. If you're reading this-unreserved apologies again and I still feel sheepish about it. After effectively ten months out of the water, my take offs were still very rusty on occasion, and this was one of them! :o(

Either way, this particular session was over before it began as Ben followed me back to the van, obviously worried that something similar might befall him. Suz returned soon after having taken the hound for a gallop and we quickly gathered up our gear and drove into Bude to see what, if anything could be done. Optimistically, Ben and I stayed suited up even if it was case of a board share scenario. First thing though was a chat with Nigel in Zuma's to see if it was repairable. One or two at Widemouth had suggested it was, though it was clear this was not going to happen in the near future.

Eight days earlier (Sat Jul 28) , such thoughts couldn't have been further from the mind as we pulled into the car park at Widemouth after our leisurely drive down overnight. Unlike previous trips down like this, there had been no real hurry as conditions weren't sparkling, and an early drop off of periphery gear at our digs was not possible this time. Hope of a mellow clean wave in the week leading up hadn't quite materialised. Indeed, with a receding tide and an unfavourable breeze, we decided to wait until after low tide (11.39) before going in.

The first dip for an hour so didn't produce much with both Ben and me way off the pace. I only managed three waves of sorts to Ben's one, thus making it clear there was a lot of effort needed to catch up for lost time. Our paddling out had improved some though, and we'd both made it out in conditions that were not too dissimilar to those of three weeks previously. Around 4pm we went back in for another hour as conditions began to clean up a little, but the wave count remained well below par (5-1 in my favour overall ;o) ). Not unsurprisingly our intended Dad v Son, fortnight-long surf challenge was put on hold for a day; this counting only as a pre-contest 'warm up'. mmmmmnnnnnn..........

Sunday (Jul 29) marked a bit a turnaround in fortunes and ambiance as the day progressed. The morning was again messy and so us chaps put off any thoughts of getting wet until later in the day. Suz therefore pounced at the chance at going in first and enjoyed everything to hand for the hour or so she was in the sea. Lunch was taken and Steveo from the Widemouth surfcam message board arrived with his family to swell the ranks. Stephh and Evie also turned up for parade.

The tide had now reached mid push as Ben, myself and Steveo paddled out around 3pm in conditions that were improving quickly despite a light and gusty NW breeze! The waves were now cleaner and showing a bit more size to them and at last we found a rhythm hitherto lost to us both. Steveo's company may have been the factor, who knows? But a reminder of some pleasing times a year sooner may have been in the back of our minds and spurred us both on to better things. Son and father shared over two dozen waves in the couple of hours or so we were in, this time in Juniors favour and kicking the competition off in the process.

More importantly, it was Suz who noticed from the clifftop a return to a visible bonding in the water; a factor sadly missing of late. He and I could be seen to be more relaxed with each other, and enjoying the company and the banter not experienced for way too long! Ben's demeanour at last looked and felt more at ease with the world. Throw in a dose of summer at last and the promise of Steveo's company the next day too, and it was fair to say that all felt well, even if concerns with my mother back in Lincs were still evident.

Monday (Jul 30) dawned bright, sunny and warm and had been earmarked for 'other things' in the morning. Plans quickly altered though as Ben confirms our suspicions having cycled to the vantage point about there being some very mellow longboardable waves on offer. The van is primed ready on his return and we're parked up and getting organised before 9am. Steveo isn't far behind and sets up camper van camp next to us with those 1-2' and super clean waves luring us over all else!

The paddle out is a doddle for once and all three of us are into our strides immediately, particularly as the masses still haven't shown up. With hopes of even better things later once the tide has turned and evening beckons, we're only in for an hour or so before getting out for a bite to eat. Even in such a short space of time Ben and I once more racked up over two dozen rides between us, again in the formers favour; but we don't care as things have once again fallen into place.

Around 3pm and it is clear that conditions may actually be deteriorating for the duration. This however is compensated by the arrival of some dolphins, perhaps as many as nine(?), who make their way majestically from south to north before disappearing.

A couple of hours later and Ben and me decided to go back in regardless of the conditions after saying au revoir to Steveo & Co. High tide wasn't far off (17.50) and there was only a testing shoredump worth playing with. Ignoring the obvious risk to damaging boards, we eventually got into a routine and snagged a further 30 plus rides which followed a similar pattern-namely a banzai take off over shallow water close in--quick ride--smack! This made more easier to put up with, with the continuing summery spell.

The following morning (Jul 31) , we were surprised to find a 1-2' and clean as a whistle wave, being gently fanned by an offshore breeze. A novelty to us in recent times and something we made the most of for just short of two hours before the breeze veered and we got out some forty rides to the good between us. By now the competitive element was creeping in more and more and we started to push each other accordingly.

I hooked up on a particularly pleasing long wave to begin proceedings which triggered Ben to start experimenting once he'd got a couple or so under his belt. Not to be outdone, this inspired me to cross-step up to the badge on a couple of occasions at least without quite managing to cheat a '5'.

Fatigue towards the end of the session, combined with a change of boards did, as previously mentioned, cause the uncharacteristic lapse on my part. This contributed to my calling it a day for the time being to re-group and recover.

Later in the early evening with high tide now nearing I went back in to the north end of the beach over the small reef outcrop I'd last surfed in 2005. I eventually got things back in sync' and enjoyed a short session which saw me capture another 9-10 notable rides. Strangely, the only times I missed waves or went ride less was when Ben & Suz came over to watch from the shoreline. Odd that!

Wednesday (Aug 1) almost followed a similar pattern if for the fact the wave size had decreased, and with it any punch. We walked out to the lineout and made the best of it while there was little or no wind. We repeated the feats numerically of the day before and even shared some water time with local hero Pete Ash, before things not unexpectedly poo-ed out.

Thursday and Friday (Aug 2-3) subsequently became the only two days where Ben and I didn't go in, though Suz did to continue her own personal campaign for water time.
posted by wollocks at 6:25 PM

The new board arrived this morning around 10.30, a little over 24 hours after ordering! Well done Surftech and The Surf Commission for an excellent product and service. A very special mention too for Nigel, Paul and everyone else at Zuma Jay for their kindness, help and customer care that lead to this purchase. Faultless.

Just click on the thumbs for a larger image to view.

posted by wollocks at 1:20 PM

Saturday (Aug 4) saw us venture further afield for the first time on this trip, having up till now not felt the need for much mileage. Boris' fuel consumption, particularly on these Cornish up and down bits, makes this more prohibitive. There's the environmental impact to consider of course, and then our cash flow situation which has become more testing this summer; to add to the already trying time!

Oh well, hang the expense and give the cat another goldfish! There was the prospect of waves and the Pirates taking on the Premiership's Leicester Tigers to look forward to, not least because it was a chance to hook up with some good friends not seen since the end of April.

With the forecast of winds to be S - SW I opted en route to divert slightly and have a look at Lusty. On inspection it was tempting but we decided to stick to the original plan and head to Godrevy. This proved to be inspired in many ways as our first glimpse revealed a solid 4' cleaned up nicely enough by a cross-offshore southerly. Obviously things weren't going to be easy in view of our recent long layoff; but at least the reforms would provide enough entertainment if nothing else.

For half an hour or so this is what we ended up doing, as we all but resigned ourselves to not being able to find a way through the lines of whitewater. Not disheartened though we tallied up a dozen or so rides each to compensate. Then, yours truly spots a gap, and ignoring any temptation to turn and ride another reform uses this channel to head towards the more interesting stuff. Ben is right behind me and paddles strongly to share this discovery with the Old Man.

Once through I briefly stop to survey the options which allows Ben to get further in front of me as he presses on. This proves to be a critical point as I quickly find myself in line for the next set and risking being washed back inside. Ben in the meantime has paddled far enough forwards to slip over the top of the first wave to safety, leaving me needing to make a snap decision. It's a no-brainer and rather than risk having no glory at all, I swivel round just in time to make the wave. A good ride follows if not classic, but I foolishly opt to stay on it too long, catching the reform in the process, and so requiring another long hard paddle out.

Frustratingly I never quite make it out again and so I am left cussing my poor choice. In addition there is also a nagging concern about Ben being left out there on his own, in what are probably the most demanding conditions he's ever been in. During a couple of my paddle out attempts I do briefly spot him, or what looks like him, managing more than adequately. Once I clearly see him riding down the face of a beauty on the front hand before he disappeared from view yet again. This convinces me he is OK, but with time ticking by before our next 'appointment', I ask a couple of surfers on their way into the water to remind him if they get a chance.

From the Lifeguards hut on the way back to the National Trust car park I spot him catch another very tasty right, and breathe a sigh of relief as he makes tracks shoreward. Back at the van and it is not unreasonable to suggest he is well stoked by his efforts. Suz listens to his recollections with the look that says "Is this really my 'little' boy now?"; but quietly shares the pride that Dad feels too. Needless to say the rest of the day at the Rec in Camborne is just icing on the cake, even if the Tigers win that particular encounter as expected.

Then came the mini disaster at Widemouth the following day (Sun Aug 5).
Having spoken to Nige at Zuma's and arranging to speak in a little more detail the following morning about the next steps to take, we headed back to Summerleaze to salvage something from the day. Ben kindly offers the use of his board although naturally I insist he goes in first to get the best of things while there is a large clean wave in the harbour mouth to play with. He goes in with the intention of not venturing out into the more active stuff beyond the Barrel Rock mark but I wonder how long that will last, bearing in mind Godrevy the day before!

With Charlie in tow and Suz manning the camera, we lock up the van and take up position on the sand dunes behind the Lifeboat house. We see Ben catch a couple of the smaller ones inside the harbour, but then become aware of his absence from view. I'd seen him paddling back towards the peak he'd found and allowed my view to wander elsewhere. Then I think I spot him further out still paddling, and then a short while later I'm convinced I've seen him on a big right further out. There's only one way to find out and we quickly make our way to the higher vantage point above the Sea Pool and there he is, one of the furthest out!

To quell any concerns we may have, almost immediately he swivels round and takes a wave with confidence, before kicking out and making his way back to the lineup. He manages to snag a couple more, including one that draws him towards one of the outcrops of reef that mark the point where Middle Beach begins. Coolly he paddles briskly towards the channel without any dramas which can all to easily happen if you get caught in the area.

After an hour or so he makes his way back in but not before I grab this sequence testing the motor drive set up on the camera first. Pity he didn't stay in longer as I was about to try out the movie function. Another time perhaps....

I was never going to match his efforts when taking over use of his board, my confidence knocked by earlier events. I did though switch to a tri fin set up to attempt a fresh approach mentally. Happily in the hour or so I was in, this did pay off a little as I bagged 8-9 waves if not actually setting the surfing world on fire.

First thing the next morning (Mon Aug 6) and we begin an unplanned ritual that involves a daily visit to Zuma Jay's.

My mind is by now a little clearer about how to proceed on the board front. A replacement is the obvious solution and would provide a quick fix, but even if we could afford it I am reluctant to rush into anything. Besides, a week seems too short a space of time to hunt down a new ride, and I am concerned that any choice before we return to Lincs may be a rash course of action. I owe it to myself and the others to explore the repair options fully regardless as to whether even half an eye on a new board is permissible.

News that the board is repairable is tempered by the fact that the earliest possible fix date wouldn't be till September. This doesn't surprise me but it does create a problem for what to do for the remainder of our time down here. Everything is consequently left up in the air although there is a chink of light in the shape of the use of a range of Surftech test boards available from Zuma's.

Now I'm not daft or naive enough to realise where, when this option was offered, that this could all end. But then over the years I guess a degree of trust has developed which guarantees no foul play by either party. I certainly wouldn't take the p1ss by using these boards as some kind of cheap or even freebie alternative to play for time selfishly. Neither would Nigel have suggested this if there wasn't a chance of some hire fees or a sale in the process.

To be truthful, I'd been curious about these Surftechs since Parky and I had been on a Longboard Clinic with WCS at Watergate some four years ago. I'd switched to one after struggling to paddle for one session and been impressed at the difference between it and my own board, but had left it at that. At the very least I could spend a day or so trying a couple of them, and even if I liked what I saw but had to resist for the time being, then sobeit.

I left the shop with a 9' Hobie PSD tucked under my arm, a rare pleasure with a board in my own case, and headed back to Summerleaze. The decision is made to give it a whirl there first and head on to Widemouth later and surf there as well to try and give a broader picture. The harbour mouth is smaller than yesterday but still a pretty useful messy-ish 2', fanned as it is by an onshore breeze. I paddle out well enough but struggle to make much of anything early on as the knock to my confidence persists. If anything the move to Widdy needed to happen sooner as on one occasion I know my hesitance just about balked one other surfers ride. Even so I ride in with some success to note and this increases with my time at Widdy as I begin to get a handle on the boards capabilities.

Tuesday (Aug 7) sees me switch to a 9'2" McTavish Original and with a smaller, cleaner 2' wave on offer we head straight to Widemouth this time. Conditions at mid flood look good enough to me and I go straight in while Ben prefers to wait till later.

This model has a channel on it's underside, a feature I have sometimes wondered about. When I catch the first wave I go for and feel the acceleration beneath my feet, my interest level increases even further. Confidence begins to flood back too as the wave count returns to a more normal level before I get out around high tide (12.50) when a NW breeze messes things up somewhat.

Around 4pm and after Suz has had some fun too, Ben and I head back in despite a lack of improvement to the quality of the waves. He settled into the rights almost directly in front of the Lifeguard hut and enjoyed a better than expected session. While I, after drifting to the Black Rock end of the beach did similar with a mixture of lefts and rights there; sharing the same space of water as another local hero of ours, Mike Raven. Needless to say my own personal successes didn't overshadow him! At this point the McT had nudged ahead in any possible purchase stakes and despite my not being able to tuck it underarm.

During the day we'd spoken with Parky about our get together and opted for the Wednesday (Aug 8) instead of Thursday, as there was at least a small chance of a small wave. Thursday was likely now to be flat even if another swell should start to show on Friday and build for the weekend.

The summer weather continued as we first headed into town to return the McT to Zuma's. I wasn't sure if another board was available for this day; conscious as I was of not taking advantage of matters. Parky though had said that Lewis's longboard was at my disposal if necessary, as unfortunately he wasn't well enough to surf himself it would seem. I'll admit to being hesitant about that offer for obvious reasons, but it mattered not as without asking I found myself leaving the shop with yet another board to try! A 9'1" Beau Young - Bear which fitted underarm nicely.

At Wadebridge I rang Parky with our ETA to discover that a lack of waves may be the order of the day, at least at Porthcothan. I wondered if, like up 'our way', an open beach may be a better option and suggested this as a possibility. It was decided to check out Watergate as a result with an option to move onto Newquay if this wasn't a go-er. There appeared to be a small clean wave and so Ben and I parked up in the overflow car park while Parky dropped off Sam at the Skatepark in town first.

With temps a little up we could have opted for rashie and shorts instead of wetties but chickened out. I did though rig up a way of wearing a 'leashed' cap to protect my less than protected head top and this proved invaluable. Not only did it act as a sun block and as a visor; but also as a means of a cooler when put back on full of water.

Ben and me headed for the lefts at the southern end of the beach which was packed in it's state of high tide (around 2pm) and the subsequent small area. In the water though wasn't too bad under the circumstance and it wasn't that long before Ben and I got into conveyor belt mode with wave after wave. This after a slow start personally as I sought the sweet spot on the deck. Parky soon joined us and a very mellow session followed even if at times turning practice was at a maximum setting to avoid all the bods inside!

Parky headed back in just after 3.30 to nip into town for Sam. But we stayed in till gone 5pm as the lineup emptied, particularly when the Air Ambulance made a beach landing to pick up a casualty! To our surprise and delight the quality of the small 1-2' wave was maintained throughout and despite a receding tide. Not epic by any means, and not to the level of our 'classic' Sandymouth session of 2005, but with easily 50-60 rides each notched up was it any surprise we were chuffed with ourselves?!

On the way back up the beach it was as if fate was stepping in too as Pat from WCS stopped us for a quick chat when he caught sight of the board I was carrying. It turned out he has an exact same model and then proceeded to sing out it's virtues which made my ears prick up. Advice about fin choice also came and tallied with my own experiences just past. Now tell me why my mind was rapidly coming to some conclusions, and how it was our post surf barbie was so chilled. Must fill up the windscreen wash reservoir on Boris too!

On Thursday's visit to Bude (Aug 9) I'm now in a position to discuss the possibility of buying a new board. The previous three days have been an eye-opener with the difficulty now being choosing between them. Comparisons are made with any custom options but it's blatantly clear I need some more data and before I can say a word, I'm headed back to Summerleaze with the PSD back in my possession!

I grab no more than 20 minutes in a small clean wave at Tower just after low tide before the hordes descend, and the difference with Monday and the board's performance is obvious. Suddenly the choice becomes that bit harder! We head back to Widemouth to ponder, christen Ben's new fin and get Suz back in again, she having dipped out the day before.

Ben enjoys his first dip and reports back that the fin does indeed add to the experience. Observation from ashore would seem to confirm this assumption. Around 6pm we both go back in for an hour or so and notice that the signs of another more notable swell are showing. I've been bold as this morning and gone in in boardies and rashie and thoroughly enjoy the freedoms this offer.

Keen to exploit any opportunity the following morning (Aug 10) we head to Summerleaze first thing (before 9am) to try Tower once more with the PSD...oh and his fin! The wave is bigger today but at beach level doesn't look as good; that is until we'd paddled out through the messier stuff due to the river flow. Outside it is a clean 2-3' left that captures the eye and we're straight on it. We don't stay out for too long though as the PSD obviously has to go back, but there was enough time to hook half a dozen good waves each and establish that the PSD's pintail does indeed make it quite lively at times.

Maybe a bit too lively? Who knows? Still in wettie and scarred from battle with sand on my feet, Nigel all but thrusts the Beau back under my arm knowing I'm close to a choice. He's right of course and another session (or even two if I get in on a final morning) should clinch it.

We headed back to Widemouth and opt for a 'sit it out till later' strategy with the promise of better things to come by evening. Odd goings on in the car park added to the mix, but did little to spoil our enjoyment. Some outrageous parking by another (then absent) driver prompted no more than a cheeky positioning by myself on arrival. I couldn't resist and besides the other cars' position suited us in a perverse way. A little later on and the attendant returns with female driver and some manoeuvring ensues with an exchange of words between them. Although we don't catch much of it as we can't honestly be bothered, it would appear we are suspected of 'grassing up' which is the proverbial cow do-do's. We think nothing of it.

Later in the day another driver with passenger and we presume grandchildren arrive, and after shifting the first vehicle slightly parks next to it. Was there detection of 'burning martyr'? Again we ain't bovvered and any tension is defused with the antics of Charlie in the van who is being mercilessly tickled by Ben-much amusement displayed by the 'neighbours' who head to the beach.

Mid afternoon and Joss Ash, jogs by, acknowledges our greetings and goes out to rip the not quite there waves to shreds for a couple of hours. I wonder whether to crack first but resist which frees up Suz to have a final hurrah. Ben needs no second invitation to go in half an hour later while I wait for Suz to return before going in myself to wet the Beau once again.

By the time I join Ben in the sea the breeze has eased right off and the wave is cleaning up nicely; almost glassy at times! The weather too, having threatened to cave in earlier has brightened up once more and created a near perfect summer evening surf scenario. My first wave is a peach and makes up my mind as to what to go for boardwise. The ride is a left and I turn up onto an upright liquid wall I cannot see over the top of! I kick out and paddle back to record the success with Ben who has had four similar already.

Even though it's a case of quality over quantity we still manage a useful quota of waves between us before Ben eventually goes in around 7.15pm. There were a couple of occasions where I got caught inside and missed out for a few minutes each time, but after this last fortnight I am a lot fitter and up to speed.

I stayed out for another half an hour and had the dubious pleasure of witnessing a parascender(?) consider the possibility of jumping off the cliff in next to no breeze. He finally opted to stay on the higher ground! By the time I was in and changing he'd gone, perhaps embarrassed by his intended exploits? Whatever. The fish and chips eaten in the van as the sun set were delicious.

Our final morning arrived (Aug 11) and loading the van up seemed endless. After saying our farewells to our hosts it would have been rude to have bypassed Widemouth even if there was the test board to return to Zuma's. This proved a good move too as there was a super clean 2'+ on offer and sunshine too...yet again! Ben and I almost ran out to the water's edge and yet another dry hair paddle out was accomplished.

Maybe it was the impending journey or perhaps fatigue was beginning to kick in. Either way or otherwise I struggled to catch a wave for some fifteen minutes while Ben cheekily carried on in his own inimitable way! The first ride did come though and despite the break becoming ever more crowded as time went by, plenty more were to follow; predominantly rights.

After perhaps an hour we were joined by Mr Ash (P) once again, who promptly showed everyone the way to go about this surfing lark with a calm, un-hurried style. I'd like to say some rubbed off on me but honesty has to prevail doesn't it?! I did though snatch a couple of good rides in his wake, but would have preferred to have been able to end them in a somewhat more composed manner so close to his proximity . On one such occasion I was glad to have my usual dexterity and awareness to grab board and/or leash when 'dismounting'!

Despite this I was rather chuffed to be quizzed by a couple of female surfers as I paddled back to the peak, as to the etiquette to be adopted when paddling out and facing an approaching surfer on a wave. I was even more pleased as, having explained my take on this subject, a rather nice wave appeared which I turned into and caught right on cue with then end of my sentance!

Time though caught up with us and all too soon the board had been returned, a deal struck and the homebound journey had begun.................

posted by wollocks at 11:52 AM

A little over 48 hours and it's 'wagons roll!'.

The mini break was a welcome distraction three weeks back, but the need for a complete change of scenery after all that's cracked off lately; is acute.

There are welcome signs on the horizon though and about time too! I had my first formal job interview in nearly seven years this morning and I am reasonably confident of being offered a position. It isn't anything glamourous, how can a Production Team Leader at a local food factory be otherwise? But it will at least boost the income situation and provide a more stable platform from which to proceed. Beyond that who knows? Suffice to say I will go with the flow in order to achieve our more long term plans.

Shift work, or more to the point the shift patterns, will impinge on our rugby and surfing (more so the former I suspect), and may be a necessary 'evil'. Having a more carefree and unconventional lifestyle is all well and good, but it has to be sustainable. This summer, my own has become the complete opposite and the time has come....for now at least to alter things before it's too late.

Just as well there is some mellow swell forecast from our arrival in Bude early on Saturday morning until perhaps Tuesday. We could all do with it that is for sure. The question now is, will there be something extra to celebrate and/or ponder?
posted by wollocks at 2:40 PM

The countdown has begun with only seven days to go before we head back west to our regular spot in Poundstock.

Obviously we're hoping for some better quality waves than those experienced a couple of weeks ago. And some more settled weather would be a bonus! It seems this year that the St Swithans effect kicked in forty days before July 15th, rather than the more usual after requisite. Not that this bothers us as a rule.

To be truthful I am more concerned that Ben rediscovers his 'get up & go', which seemed to have 'got up & gone' last time out. I'm sure it will, as there have been snippets that the old Ben is emerging from his teeny 'blonde moment' of recent times. Something which by common consent will come not a moment too soon.

Maybe the mid-holiday detour to Camborne to watch the Pirates play a pre-season friendly with Leicester, will complete this desired transition and confirm his return to rugby action soon after as well. If there is a god...?
posted by wollocks at 4:33 PM

Travelled back yesterday after a useful first trip west since last August!!

The van performed well even if the fuel spillage problem, though lessened, still exists when attempting to fill to the brim. At least I have found a work around which eradicates any further 'embarrassing' situations at the filling stations!

Surf wise it wasn't an ideal re-intro but at least I have come back with some form of progress to boast, from where I was first thing on Saturday morning.

Jnr worryingly has a lot of effort to put in, mainly on the fitness front, to get anywhere near past levels of ability. His own fault of course, not that he'll acknowledge it publicly, but then teenagers know best; don't they?!!! Deep down he probably realises this, but because of his recent idleness he has now left himself with less than 3 weeks to rectify matters if he wants to enjoy the 2 week jaunt west as normal.

Mrs W though probably got the most satisfaction from the weekend, particularly on Sunday. Just as well she decided to hop on board on Friday then eh?
posted by wollocks at 12:41 PM

Right. Decision made. We're off later on tonight-all of us, dog and all! Tomorrow will be spent in and around Bude with an option to head to Saunton on Sunday on the return journey. Mick and family will be in Bude sometime tomorrow morning, so we shall no doubt hook up with them. Shall speak with Parky later and see what we can do there. I know he has a Hotdoggers comp at Saunton on Sunday (hence above), we'll just have to see if we can get him to Bude tomorrow as well.

Report when I get back.
posted by wollocks at 4:27 PM

Boris is now back in action after an extended 'winter break', well he will be when the Insurance Cover Note turns up in the post. It's due today, but living where we do the post delivery times are somewhat hit and miss. Once on the doormat though, we can nip to Woodhall Spa and get the tax disc and get the tank filled to check that the leak has been rectified.

Ben and me are on standby for a weekend trip west to break him back into things. All that is required is a final decision later in the day; load up; and set off sometime tonight. The forecast is in the balance. Waves are there, but so is an unpredictable onshore breeze which should lessen and swing more SW by Sunday. Watch this space.
posted by wollocks at 11:00 AM

Thanks to Rob B who emailed me with such supportive words at what is a difficult time for me personally. Far more difficult than I ever thought possible.

Well Ben and I did break the sequence and get in on Weds evening at Sandilands. With the concern that this maybe our only window of opportunity, the inflatable roof rack was deployed on the Fiesta and off we went....though not without doing so under a cloud.

Maybe it's as a consequence of recent events, but there appears to be an air of change looming that isn't of a positive nature. I can't...won't go into any details as I see them, but even allowing for the emotions of the time, this is not imaginary.

Just when I began to see a ray of hope a week ago; or even further back to that Halcyon day at Twickenham in April when the future seemed very exciting; so now I sense that one or two people close to me are about to take some very foolish and ill advised steps in the short term at best!!!

Thanks heavens Suz isn't one of them......

Oh the surf?........well...even though we got in at slack water and the beginning of the ebb, it was still do-able despite an often pesky cross-off NW breeze. That said, to bob about and paddle around for the best part of two hours and only get a couple of mistimed and unsatisfying rides of sorts; the sort that end like a damp squib as the wave speeds off without you to shore; was an anti climax.

It's not often I return home from the sea in a worse frame of mind than when I left, but this was one of them. Now, a day or so after the event, and with a clearer view of the overall picture of things, I can at least content myself in the knowledge that it cannot get any worse. I will not let it, or anyone for that matter, come between me an activity that is so special.
posted by wollocks at 9:58 AM

Thanks to Naips for his touching email received this morning. True friends show through at times like these, and although our only real connection is through the surfing, it's nice to know that support is there.

Looks as if I may get a chance to wet the gills sooner rather than later too! Even before Naips' email, I'd eyeballed the predicted swell for the east coast this week. Weds PM and Thurs AM look most likely to go off and with the preferred smaller tides to boot. Fingers crossed.
posted by wollocks at 10:15 AM

It is now nearly July and the board and suit(s) have lain dormant for the whole of 2007 to date which even by my early surfing days is an unheard of length of time. Since last getting wet towards the end of October there has been plenty of reason though which, with the help of this long awaited post I'll hope to explain.

A week or so after that last surf at Sandilands, I picked up a combined knee/ankle injury playing rugby at Notts Moderns which prevented me playing (and surfing) for the best part of a month. IIRC there was little if any swell to trouble me bar one brief spell which Naips informed me about at the time. Either way, by the time I was fit again a predictable flat spell ensued.

Then, just before Christmas, I over extended the bicep in my right arm (playing rugby again) which once again rendered me out of action for another 3-4 weeks. There were also concerns brewing with both my parents who, both being in their 80's, is not unexpected if a tad self inflicted with typical stubbornness! Surfing was definitely on the back burner regardless by now.

As January drew to a close I gambled on my arm being fit and returned to playing once more, desperate for at least a bit of normality. Nearly half way through my comeback I went to make a routine tackle only for the arm to completely give way as the bicep ruptured big time!

This ended my season on the spot and made surfing a distant dream too for good measure until at least May. However since then the problems with my parents' health sadly went off the scale and has provided a distressing distraction.

Firstly Mum was admitted into hospital after another fall, although she was discharged some 8-9 days later. However, within a week of her return home, Dad was rushed in with numerous issues and meant Mum had to go into care on an emergency rating as her condition means more or less round the clock care. So there we were on Cup Final day with Dad in Grantham Hospital behind 'barrier nursing', and Mum in Stamford.

The first few days were a trial as Dad's condition peaked and troughed erratically; particularly 'upstairs' in the mind. Mum reassuringly settled quickly in to her new surrounds, although the implications of this move created stresses of their own with regards future plans for them both. On occasion, this manifested with a heightening of the PSP symptoms which had made hers and Dad's day to day situation at home reach nearly untenable levels. But for the most part she began to flourish and improve health wise. A special mention then to the staff at Priory Court in Stamford.

Moving into a 4th week in hospital though, and despite being well enough to move onto a ward proper, Dad's overall condition wasn't getting any better. His refusal or lack of interest towards food, drink or indeed any mental stimulation was becoming a real cause for concern. This wasn't made any easier by the fact that Mum and Dad hadn't seen each other since the day of separation, although for the most part neither had been in a state too. Plans were made to rectify this, but were reliant on Dad becoming well enough first.

This didn't happen, as at around 8.45pm on Weds 13th June he passed away quickly and peacefully, before even the ward nurses could ring my brother who lives nearby. Suz and me had intended getting over earlier that afternoon, but had had to put off till the next day; safe in the knowledge that someone had been to see him that day. Tell me we shouldn't be racked with guilt over that one!

In the days leading up to his funeral yesterday (Fri 22nd June), it was at least heartening to see the real 'Mum' show through her condition. Seeing her tearful and yet at the same time strong and resolved to grieve properly for Dad was a relief.

After a slight bureaucratic delay, we managed to get her to see Dad in the Chapel of Rest and begin the saying goodbye properly on Thursday. It was good to see him look 'better' again if you can excuse the irony in that statement, and I was surprised at my calmness.

Yesterday too went by well with a short service of remembrance at his and Mum's local village church in Colsterworth, before his Committal at Grantham Crem'. The calmness I'd felt more or less all along cracked finally as he was brought in with my youngest nephew Geoffrey (a gifted musician) playing the organ brilliantly. But with the support of Suz and Ben in particular I was able to compose myself enough to deliver a eulogy for him; the single most difficult thing I have ever had to do.

These are the words:

For those of you who may not know, I am Martin, Ron's youngest son (some would say the good looking one!)

People said this would be the most difficult time, and as the moment has drawn ever nearer towards bidding Dad au revoir, their advice echos ever louder inside my head.

But there is another voice prominent in amongst this chaos, whose calming tone and re-assurance, quietly reminds me of times passed by, when in younger days I needed steering through the usual angst associated with growing up.

It's not my voice, but the sound comes from my lips both verbally and silently in my mind. It's Dad's. A secret legacy that has crept up on me and meshed seamlessly with my own developed personality.

But then that was how Dad operated. Quietly. Patiently. And never with a raised voice or hand. That was Mum's Job!

Consequently, although I (and Mick) may not be perfect, we have at least arrived at a point where we know what is right and wrong, and how to respect others' feelings and needs and act accordingly. I guess a father can't really ask for more than that.

He lead a full life and, if never reaching a position to display his skills properly, he would have been content with his efforts when he finally retired from his final job as a moulding machine setter at Ilfords in Basildon after 20 years service with them in 1981.

Loyalty was everything to him as his long service to employers showed throughout his working life. More importantly though this was shown to his wife Jessie; Mum, to whom he was a devoted husband for just short of 64 years. Another fine role model example that Mick and I hope to emulate despite our futile attempts to wriggle free from Pam and Sue's clutches respectively!!

A creature of habit and reliability, each day, until quite recently, was a testament to the clockwork precision he used to make his life run as smoothly as possible. The alarm (rarely needed) - the breakfast things set out the night before - and most importantly, Mum's cup of tea in bed before beginning the day. Simple stuff, but effective and heaven help you if you disrupted things-as I did often when rising early on occasion to go fishing or such like! Sorry ;o)

But then he'd always see the funny side as a classic moment showed while on holiday in Westward Ho! in the mid 70's.

One morning, while Mum was doing 'Mum things' in the caravan we decided to wander down to the beach and explore the various rock pools that would be uncovered by the receding tide. Something we'd done many times before and had sufficient experience of to combat the often slippery and precarious nature of the reef at the south/west end of the beach.

We negotiated the initially stony part with the usual ease and made our way out further where the terrain gets that bit more challenging. Dad to his credit was keeping pace until, with my back to him, I hear the sounds of a footfall slipping and the thump as Dad having been launched by some sneaky seaweed into free fall, was left in an undignified heap on the edge of a particularly deep rock pool.

Silence on my part at first was followed by the obvious check to see if he's alright. He was. More silence before I can no longer contain myself, and I have to ask if it's OK to laugh...It was and we did; and have done ever since.

Interests included a passion for the sea and sailing, and for aviation too; although time and opportunity always seemed to prevent him from exploring either fully enough.

In retirement though there was some reward for his desire, namely with the assistance he gave to Cannon Lionel Webber at St Martin's in Basildon with the re-fit of his boat and some sailing time. An achievement he commemorated with a scale model of this vessel built from scratch. Dad and his models eh Mum?

The flight at Duxford in a de Havilland Dragon Rapide with his grandson Ben, courtesy of my old friend David Ward a few years back reduced him to babbling schoolboy, as Ben will testify. This experience far exceeded his only previous flying excursions in the rather less romantic surrounds of Boeing 757s to and from Alicante a few years before!

But then his needs were often secondary. The family were most important with his serving duties at the various churches he attended throughout his life, a close second.

His words to my just married wife Sue after our wedding still ranks up there with the best. At Carlisle Station just before his and mum's departure back home, his pleasure at having another daughter join the family was touching, emotive and so right for the moment. Sue will concur.

Typical of the man. Few words - always appropriate - and sensitive to the occasion. Wonder what he would have said today.

I'd like to think they'd share the sentiments of this poem by an unknown author:

God saw you were getting tired
A cure was not meant to be,
So he put his arms around you
And whispered come with me.

With broken hearts we loved you
As we heard you had passed away,
Although we love you deeply
We could not make you stay.

Your golden heart stopped beating
And your caring soul was put to rest,
God broke our hearts to prove to us
He only takes the best.

Sleep on Dad, you've earned it.

The focus on that first wave has now become that bit more special. Thank you for bearing with me.
posted by wollocks at 1:37 PM

Apologies for later than normal posting post-surf as I've been experiencing problems uploading with Blogger. Ben and I did indeed get over to Sandilands on Friday afternoon and enjoyed a return to some surfing action. It was a day of firsts on reflection: the first time Boris had served his purpose on the east coast, the first surf since June 1st on the east coast; indeed our first surf since mid August in Cornwall.

I'd opted to go later rather than earlier, timing our arrival for about an hour before low tide. Though not the ideal state of tide, the breeze was forecast to drop off to very light and I was banking on the swell to pick up some more on the turn. As it was conditions were good enough with plenty of clean wave to make it worthwhile on arrival.

We were soon changed and in having both opted for fins set at the back of the box for speed. This was perhaps the wisest choice as the receding tide was making timing awkward to say the least, requiring plenty of paddling to get into them. Hence why it took us both 15 -20 minutes to catch any sort of notable wave. Once wired though we were soon up to speed and picking and choosing between the mellow rights and lefts, and the odd rogue bomb close in.

It was around 3.15 when Naips announced his arrival in typical enthusiastic and vocal fashion. A true character on this stretch of coast! He joined the logging crew before opting to sponge as low tide took a hold, by which time Ben and I hit a nice spell and sequence of waves each.

Ironically as the tide did begin to flood again, conditions deteriorated markedly which encouraged Ben to call it time after only an hour a quarter in. I soon followed when it became clear the best had been had, and was unlikely to change before dark. Then came the next 'first' as my return to Boris was marked with a mug of hot choc made my Junior himself. Wonders will never cease.
posted by wollocks at 5:24 PM

Jury Service has ended on a feeling of anti climax but I have a chance to exorcise this by going over to Sandilands later this afternoon with Ben. Shall have a quick lunch, load up Boris and head over to meet up with Naips around 2.30pm. With the other day to day frustrations of late, I could really do with some waves!
posted by wollocks at 12:00 PM

Something is bound to crop up, it usually does of late.

This would suggest the threat of imminent swell and how fate will decree that I don't get a look in! The signs are good for a potentially ideal set of elements to combine from tomorrow onwards here on the east coast. This time though I'm hopeful of being able to trundle over with Ben and get in for the first time since we returned from Cornwall over two months ago!

As ever though a cloud looms which may just deny us, this time in the shape of Jury Service which I'm due to complete....tomorrow! There is though cause for hope insofar as no new trials usually begin on a Friday, and I expect to find out later today that I will not be required to go into Lincoln tomorrow as a result. Even so a doubt looms as this has been a frustrating two weeks 'doing my public duty', and it wouldn't surprise me if there isn't yet another twist. Yesterday [Weds] underlined exactly what I mean:

My first week was a total non-event spent waiting around, sent home early, called in late; that kind of scenario. Not a sniff of a court room in fact, as potential trials were called off with late guilty pleads, 'illnesses' and other time wasting tactics to boot. Despite this, I couldn't help but want to get involved and was keen to get into a 'starting 12'.

Come Monday just gone it looked as if at last I'd get my wish, when I was selected onto a jury panel which this time actually made it into a court room! I was one of three 'rejectees' who weren't drawn from the hat, and with this being my second week and eventually not required the following day, I figured my chance had gone.

Then yesterday on being recalled I found myself on a panel again with every chance of a 5+ day trial to get teeth into. We assembled late morning and discovered things were due to start around 2pm which allowed an extended lunch break. Two o'clock came and went but assurances were forthcoming that we'd at least get sworn in before the day ended. Around 5.10 we did eventually get the call, only to discover that the defence had just pleaded guilty and there was to be no trial. We had been called in only to be apologised to for the inconvenience; which was appreciated, but boy did the dock get the 'stink eye'!

I shall know after 5pm whether or not I do have to go in again tomorrow [Fri], and if not, it's down to the elements to play ball to stop me going completely mad :o(
posted by wollocks at 9:59 AM

Thought I'd better report in as it's been a month since I did last!

No surf to report whatsoever on the east coast, at least for me personally. There was a brief swell a week or so ago but it clashed with work and had disappeared by the weekend. Otherwise it has been dire.

To compound the low feeling it is 3 years to the day since the death of a good friend of ours in Cornwall; Pete Hall. He was the joint owner of the Old School House in Poundstock where we stay so often. Sadly missed but not forgotten.

Just as well I've got the rugby to keep me sane as otherwise I don't think I'd cope very well with life in general at the moment. Later...
posted by wollocks at 7:05 PM

Sat 29th July: The latest journey began a little after 10pm last night as planned, and as with Ben and I's inaugural trip down in Boris, went without hitch or drama. Being more loaded with stuff to last a fortnight rather than two days, and with an extra person, dog, bike and other periphery we perhaps added 20-30 minutes actual driving time than before. Even so there is something more in the way of adventure with this mode of travel, enhanced more than likely by the 'red eye' nature we have undertaken.

It had materialised late in the day yesterday that we could have driven down on that day instead and wangled an extra day in the process. As it was we were informed that the key would be under the mat for us to drop off our excess gear at whatever time we arrived in the early hours. Setting off when we did, I'd estimated we'd be at Poundstock somewhere between 6-7am after a nap break at Michael Wood, and a re-fuel & provisions stop at Barnstaple. Encouragingly we seemed to have been a bit easier on the fuel too as we sailed past the Tiverton Services and managed the further 34 miles to Barnstaple and then some. As predicted we rolled up at our digs a little before 7 and after ditching the un-necessaries were at Widemouth around 7.30. And boy wasn't it worth it as the waves were firing with a solid 4' clean swell greeting our weary eyes with an hour and a half to go before high tide.

All the fuss about Gwith the previous day went out of the window as the Old Man once again showed method in his apparent madness. The weather was obviously on the turn as forecast and how long this window would last before the breeze switched from a cross off to worse was anyone's guess. Regardless Ben and myself changed in record time, set the fins of our boards forward in the boxes for a looser feel and quicker turn and ran out to the waters edge. Suz had opted not to go in at all, the journey obviously taking more out of her than hoped and besides there was the pleasure in introducing Charlie to Cornwall and the Atlantic. Early indications are he likes both!

Meanwhile back out in the waves, Ben and I successfully negotiated a heavier paddle out than of late and set about the business in hand. Rides were few and far between early on as we both sussed out the form. For once it was me to claim the first ride of the day which seemed to give Ben the encouragement to put in that extra stroke and go for it in as large a swell as he has experienced so far. His first then came soon after when he paddled for a nicely shaped beast that he almost missed but for some quick foot movement forward on his deck to get that extra bite. This lit the fuse for a performance as good as he's ever managed with confidence and competence in bucket loads. This was further emphasised by his reaction and recovery to some heavy nailings with humour and determination.

Somewhere in the background I was enjoying myself too and more than keeping up with his wave count. But then in these bigger conditions it is perhaps no surprise as I at least have experience to fall back on. I relish any challenge and have no concept of quitting however difficult it gets; hopefully this is rubbing off on Junior! I was pleased with all aspects of my technique today and probably finished with 15-20 notable waves in the 2+ hours spent in the water. There was variety too from the well taken with a good powerful turn to taking off with the leash caught in my toes! It don't matter to me as they all count and all add up to a shed full of fun.

Hunger finally drove me to ride one all the way in ready for our planned cooked breakfast in the van. Ben and me had begun talking of it as we neared the end of the session and were making each other feel even more ravenous. Pity then when Suz informed us of our cock up on the catering front. In our haste to get to the beach, we'd left the supplies back at our digs sitting in the cool box ready to go! We settled for less and then spent some time recuperating in and around Boris. Perhaps against better judgement we both went back in near to low tide which only resulted in a complete antithesis of the mornings successes. Fatigue had kicked in and with a now messy onshore wave to battle against there really was only one winner, sending us both back in with tales between legs but no discontentment. Food and wine and sleep now beckoned. The question is, can we get up soon enough tomorrow...?

Sun 30th July: ....errr no we couldn't! Hardly surprising in view of the exertions the day before, and the lack of good nights due to the recent heatwave; it was nearer to 9.30 when we first stirred. Too late practically to dash to Bude and try and snatch the early ebb at Summerleaze; the best option as the breeze had picked up overnight to a gusty SW'erly. The later evening tide would be the next opportunity, consequently we made our way into Bude mid morning and parked Boris near to the dunes with a view to having a day at the beach and surrounds to bide our time and chill some more. This gave Charlie more time to acquaint himself with these new experiences and us an opportunity to hone our skills in utilising the van's assets. The swell was still with us and still as big as yesterday, but now of course it was being messed up and made more gnarly by the now onshore winds. However the sun was out and what showers there were around avoided us.

Around 5pm an hour and a half after low tide, Suz was the first one to crack when Ben and I insisted she got in for the first time on this trip. She'd have probably been better off going in a little earlier to make hay in the banzai white water that we'd seen earlier but it didn't matter as she enjoys it more once the zoo have gone home to get ready for their evening plans etc. I followed her down soon after to watch for a bit and managed to stub my big toe in the process which turned the air blue for a while. I returned to the van to get changed to go in and play some time after 6pm, and had the pleasure of bumping into Steveo from the Widemouth Bay surfcam message board in the process. We'd missed meeting on the trip earlier in the month by a whisker and so we chatted for a bit as Ben and me got ready.

I suppose it was sometime around 7pm when we finally got in as Suz was getting out after her water time. The tide was now rapidly filling the area behind the breakwater which gave us more scope to exploit the cleaner waves in it's lee. The sheltered reforms were in the 1-2' range while a bit further out the main beasts were easily in the 4' range. I headed out there while Ben opted to stay inside for a more sedate time. Using the rip from the river it didn't take too long to get out back and for half an hour or so I had a stab at things which were reminiscent of the days I'd had at Crackington a year previous. It was lumpy and wild at times, and vigilance was needed to make sure you didn't get guided on to the rocks near the sea pool. But it was fun and I was rewarded with three or more short but exhilarating waves.

The toe was a distraction though and caused me to compensate too much at times and probably miss a few more. Conscious of this I moved back in closer and played there instead nearer to Ben and allowing me to view his efforts. He was doing alright and did well on a couple of occasions to capture otherwise lost causes even after admitting he was still feeling the effects of the day before. I made the most of things until around 8.30 before returning to Boris and a hot choc. Time does fly then as they say because it certainly didn't feel as if I'd been in for an hour and a half. Too much fun obviously!

Mon 31st July: After seeing most of June and July back in the east sunny, hot and crucially with any wind coming from an eastern quadrant, the weather pattern does seem to have altered to the opposite just when we need it as it was. Things are now relatively cooler, changeable and with the breezes coming onshore and certainly around the Bude area the only real option for a surf is to wait until a couple of hours or so before high tide and do Summerleaze. Again we just weren't up in time to get the morning tide and so we hung around Poundstock while Ben cycled into Bude. Mid afternoon we headed into town and found a spot near the dunes to take up residence until the water was far enough in to the harbour to get in. Encouragingly, although the rain began to settle in as early evening approached the breeze did appear to be dropping. We held our breath hoping this scenario held long enough, but had to cheat and breath again when bangers and mash were dished up.

Luckily this didn't seem to matter as when we suited up and went in around 7.15 it had held and there was promise of a much cleaner wave in the shelter of the breakwater. Things were still stirred up enough beyond but this would obviously feed through enough to make it interesting. Yesterday I'd used a boot to protect my toe but had found this odd and enough of a distraction to miss some waves I'd have otherwise taken OK. Though still sore I opted for the plaster only protection which may or may not last the duration [It didn't!].

The waves gradually began to filter though more and more and we both got into our stride from the off. One or two were missed still particularly when we took off from peaks which suddenly steepened quicker than anticipated, but in the earlier stages it remained mellow enough. We also on occasion ventured further out together this time and sampled the wilder stuff that was peaking in front of the rocks that protrude from the sea pool. Although we shouldn't have, we both fell into the temptation of riding them further in as the thrill of the banzai element initially was replaced with the second wind of the reform. Long paddle outs were the order for the time being then. Later on Ben opted to stay further in as I sought more of the thrills n spills, more so when we swapped boards for the last half hour or so before finally paddling in around 9.30. worryingly as we settled back into our digs the wind was noticeably picking up which didn't bode well for tomorrow.

Tues 1st Aug: We weren't wrong in our assessment as today was nothing short of a blown out mess. The swell was still there but the wind was still too strong and had switched round to the west with threat of veering further round to the NW later. Ben and I didn't bother venturing in though later on in the day Suz did get wet at Widemouth for an hour or so before the entire beach was red flagged. On coming in she reported that it wasn't anything special which surprised me, but then who am I to judge? At least the wind should drop sufficiently overnight to give us all something to play with. The initial plan was to head to Summerleaze for the morning tide but that was dependent on swell size and wind direction, neither of which forecast was convincing.

Weds 2nd Aug: This lack of conviction continued when we finally surfaced. The wind had indeed eased but was from the NW which prompted me to leap on the bike and have a visual from near to Widemouth Manor. The check confirmed that there was a rideable wave though the swell had dropped a little from yesterday. It was enough though to fire up after a quick breakfast and head to the Bay after speaking with Parky to make arrangements to meet tomorrow, Thursday. Once parked up and organised Ben and me were both in around half an hour before high tide [11.10]. At this stage despite the light breeze from the NW the waves were pretty well lined up with an acceptable shape. Ben paddled directly in front of the steps towards a defined right peak, while I ended up more in luck than judgment after a tricky paddle out mid way between Widdy & Black Rock. I wasn't complaining though as I quickly picked off three nice lefts to get me in the mood. I'd spotted Ben do similar and he seemed tuned in to the conditions too.

Strangely though, as quickly as I got into it, for a while I lost my way. I still managed to make the take off but the length of ride shortened as silly errors lead to wipeouts. Worse still, there was a brief interlude where even the take-off was poorly judged much to Ben's amusement now we were in the same patch of water. To my relief this patch didn't last too long but ride lengths weren't matching earlier on so I went in. Ben wasn't far behind and lunch was taken with the rest of the crew, namely Suz and Charlie.

After the break Ben went back in and Suz got suited up to go in for an hour. Now two hours or so into the ebb, conditions were still OK and so I settled in for some chill time in the van and watched the lads exploits through the binoculars. Credit to him as he kept positioned accurately enough to keep in view and provide enough entertainment before I nodded off with Charlie snuggled up contentedly. Before I knew it I was awoken as Suz re-appeared after some fun of her own which freed me up to go back in for a second bash though it didn't look as promising. This was confirmed by an incoming Ben but ever the optimist I continued on my way. Sometimes the glass is actually half empty as one ride of note later and plenty of chop slop was enough to say it wasn't worth the effort. Roll on tomorrow which can only be better...can't it?

Thurs 3rd Aug: Met up with Parky and his family at his summer pitch within spitting distance of Porthcothan around midday. His eldest son, Sam, was over at Newquay taking part in a skating contest running in unison with the Boardmasters, but we were to meet up later on his return. Lorraine was there along with Lewis and after a short while of catching up and finalising the days itinery a pair of father & sons disappeared of to the local beach for a couple of hours surf. The girls hung at base and did the girly chinwag thing enjoying the ever improving weather.

At the beach we found a rideable couple of foot of choppy wave and set about making the best of it until around 3pm. At this point we were to head Wadebridge way so Parky could pick up his Chris Harris shaped board won in a Wavelength competition, photo shoot and all. In the meantime I began where I left off yesterday and struggled to wire the place and conditions while the other three were into it from the off. Ben in particular was reveling in showing the old man up but gradually I found may way and by the time we rode one in the gap between between our wave counts was at least respectable [I'd managed around a dozen+ rides to his near twenty]. Lewis had done well and shown how he's progressed with around fourteen waves of his own which didn't quite match his dads score, but it was nice early on to see them share a wave.

The 'prizegiving' and photoshoot was next and we all piled into Parky's Zafira to make our way to CH's Black & White shaping works off the beaten track somewhere outside Wadebridge. The board itself was a nice piece of work finished in green and yellow with a thin black stripe close to the rail, to complete the South African feel to it [Chris in case you wonder hails from those parts]. At 8' it's shorter than anything he's had before and with a tri fin thruster set up oh did we tease him about going so 'short'. The question now was, is Parky going to christen that evening time permitting?

Silly question, of course he would! Upon returning from Wadebridge via the supermarket for provisions for the barbie later, the four lads hopped into Boris to snatch an hour more at Porthcothan. The tide was now around the low mark [6pm] and deceptively there was still a similar wave to be had. From the road it didn't look so but then that's why this small beach is often overlooked. This time it was me to outshine son as I went in with his board with the three fin arrangement and hooked three good waves in quick succession before he caught his first on mine. Parky though stole the show early on taking the first four waves he went for and was impressed with the way the board paddled. There then followed a version of musical chairs as boards were swapped about. I ended up on Parky's late on but missed my one and only opportunity when my trailing foot got tangled in the leash at the crucial moment. It didn't matter though as I'd had my share anyway and an appetite pressed.

Fri 4th Aug: When we finally all surfaced for breakfast, it was noted that Ceefax had Bude as 2' and messy. There was though barely a breeze emanating from the NW so once sorted we all piled into Boris and headed for Widemouth around 10.30 [time by now has become a periphery]. If anything the waves had a surprising amount of quality to them than of late, though it would be churlish to go overboard. There was something to 'work' with however and Ben and Suz were first in leaving me to dog sit Charlie. Although the sun wasn't out [yet], it was warm enough for Ben to opt for rashie and shorts. Watching from the van I could see he was enjoying it and I couldn't wait to follow suit.

Happily [?] I didn't have long to wait as Suz was back after around three quarters of an hour having had a reasonable enough time taking out the Emmetts in the red & yellows. I did though make doubly sure she'd had enough for now before dashing out to grab some action before it possibly poo-ed out; which it could if the breeze increased. As it was there was still a little local cross chop to keep you on your toes with wave selection, but not enough to really spoil things. Released from the relative constrictions of a summer wettie, the feeling of freedom particularly in the shoulder region was like a breath of fresh air. Of course, surfers from warmer climes [water wise at least] would think we're mad but it certainly allows more expression. Both Ben and I were snapping up waves at a far greater rate, no doubt in view of the quicker turn around in paddling back out to the peaks. To be honest we both enjoyed some really fun rides though I still can't claim to being a natural cross-stepper. I'll stick to the progressive stuff I guess ;o)

Hunger drove us to see how Suz and Charlie were getting on after around two hours I suppose, around high tide [1.20pm-ish]. Ben and I ventured back in after an hour or so's rest with the sun now out properly and the breeze still light - nil. The tide was now on the ebb but the waves still held their shape and if anything had picked up slightly. We continued where we had left off though the emphasis was more now on quality rather than quantity by which I mean I had my moments of toil. These didn't last that long, but just as you think you've got it wired, then out paddled Joss Ash to really show everyone how is was done. I never tire watching him surf though I bet he doesn't remember when we first shared the same space of water on the day I christened my longboard six years or so ago.

With another two hours or so under our belts we went back in with a view to perhaps call it a day and chill in the van for the early evening. The waves weren't as good anyway and fatigue was kicking in. That should have been that but it wasn't as we both got tempted back in close to low tide when they appeared to improve slightly again. Big mistake and we should have listened to our complaining bodies. Looks were deceptive too and we struggled manfully on with nothing to show for it for nearly an hour.

Sat 5th Aug: SJ on A1 Surf.com had [we'd heard] earlier in the week talked of a mellow longboard weekend on the north coast. Having left the beach yesterday evening we wondered whether this would be the case. The light breeze had veered more to the west but the question in our minds was would there still be swell. As it was reasonably late in the morning we skipped a pre surf check and went for it. The first glimpse of the sea at the Bay was encouraging though and looked a similar size to yesterday but cleaner with it. Once parked up Ben and me suited up and were in in good time to capitalise. After starting out trying the rights ahead of the steps I paddled over to the mid beach lefts that were showing and picked off one by one in a crowded line up. Ben had lined up with the rights also and stuck at it a little longer but with less success. He was getting a few rides but was finding it difficult getting any speed however he tried to alter things.

As time ticked by conditions if anything improved and the rides got better and allowed for lesser beings like me to try a few things. On one occasion I swivelled, thrust the board down into the water and allowed the movement forward as it came to the surface to get me into a wave without paddling. Having done the hard bit and then made a sweet turn, I goofed and muddled my feet up which led to the inevitable wipeout. On another occasion I rode one [successfully] with both feet tangled up in my leash! I was having a few problems with this old knee leash anyway and could do without this hindrance. Ben in the meantime had come over to where I was and bagged a better ratio to regain confidence before we both paddled in after an hour and a half or so.

This gave us the chance to grab some lunch and allow Suz a sniff of the fun afterwards. Not unsurprisingly she was itching to get in and enjoy some waves with the rays. Once the nosh had settled she and I made our way down leaving Ben to dog sit and snooze. Conditions were by now the best they had been all week since last Saturday morning which I managed to exploit for the next hour+, to put together a good sequence of waves. We now had the proverbial classic summer longboard scenario. Even so, I was conscious of the others' needs and so decided to ride in while on a high to allow both Suz to stay out and Ben to get in. I'm guessing it was somewhere around high tide [2.30pm-ish] by this time.

Ben was already in rashie and shorts chomping at the bit by the time I arrived back at the van. In a flash he was gone and in another was out in the line up to make hay while the sun shone. Not long after his departure Suz rolled up with the same thing in mind as I did. By then I was enjoying the break and decided to hang loose some more lazing around and watching Ben's progress through the binoculars. I saw him continue in his own sweet way with a succession of takes until one in particular caught my eye. A nicer looking set loomed which he and one or two others spotted and positioned themselves for. Ben checked over his shoulder but hadn't seen one of the others pop up a shade earlier and take the wave he was going for. By the time he did see the situation he had committed and tried to pull out to get out of the way. He almost succeeded but his board had other ideas and landed on the other guy's feet thus spoiling the wave. From my vantage point I saw some pointing and gesticulating and it was obvious matey was going to make his way back to put over his point. Ben by now was paddling back out to reposition as the other lad dealt with the inside which was by now awash with whitewater.

Eventually he did catch up with Ben but it did seem to be sorted in the right manner. Had it not I may have had to get out there pretty sharpish, but as it was I ambled back out at my leisure to join up with chastened son. I discovered that things were OK and that there was no bad feeling out there which was good. On a personal front I struggled to recapture the earlier form as I either missed the opportunities presented or made mistakes when hooking it right. The troublesome leash played it's part at times too and clinched it with regards nipping into ZJ's later. Ben had by now in his own words gone thirty minutes without a ride and moved back to where the rights were peaking. He must have had one then as the last I saw he was riding into the beach and back to the bus. I stuck it out a little longer but it was becoming clear I wasn't going to get much joy as the ebb was now having it's effect on the swell. I spotted Suz over in the red & yellows on my way in making the most of things; indeed when she came in an hour later she wore a big enough grin. If truth be told with the 'collateral damage' she creates she should have little images of tourist 'kills' sprayed on to her wettie!

Sun 6th Aug: We woke to a little more breeze in the air and at a slightly more normal time today with some hesitation as to whether to head to the beach first thing. Ben was volunteered for a quick check on the bike and came back reporting that there was still a couple or feet of swell if a little less clean. This didn't really answer the question marks but we jumped into the van and headed seaward anyways, with a view to grabbing a couple of hours there before lunch. Ben and me went in suited up for an hour and a bit and managed a handful of rides each in trickier conditions. There was nothing special for us to be had but it was more valuable water time for each by the time we paddled in to return to base for lunch for once. On the way out we were hailed down by Steveo after which we had the choice to go back to Poundstock vindicated by watching Button record his first ever GP win.

Once this excitement settled we ventured back to Widdy to see if things had improved any. The parking hadn't, but we eventually snuck into a space on the grass near to the road. The waves had perked up some and with high tide passed [15.38] they were of a far better shape and organised. I got suited up but went over to chat with Steveo who's van I'd spotted down the front. He'd just got out and reported that the afternoon had gotten better as time went by, if a little choppy at times. The feeling we had though was that the breeze would drop shortly and the wave would clean up some more. On cue it did around 5pm and so with Ben joining the party we all paddled out mid beach to see if it was as fun as it looked.

It was, and we were all soon paddling into some nicely formed 2-3' waves. Ben in particular was up to speed and got into his best form so far with a good wave count compared to us older guys. We still managed a good enough accounts of our own though personally I saved my best till later. There was a fair choice between rights and lefts, which required a quick check before take-off, to make sure you didn't head into the still busy red and yellows. I found this out on one occasion though only after I'd pulled out and got caught inside for a bit. Obviously while using this peak I figured the best option was to take a right to avoid the wrath of the lifeguards [which I hadn't btw].

After an hour the peaks further down the beach towards Black Rock started t