Back from my travels to Cornwall for 15 days and able to report at last. Sorry for the delay. It's been a bit hectic, what with my dad being hospitalised and stuff. Luckily it seems the worst is over and he is due to be let home today.
As for the trip, well, Ben & I got in at least once each day bar one [Mon 27th], with Suz not far behind. Suz also managed for the first time of real note to get feet to board during a poo session wave wise on Sun 26th. On the whole though, the wave quality was pretty good throughout; the first week in particular which saw a large swell hit shore from Monday [20th] p.m. through to Saturday [25th] during which we and several of the OTL crew [Gav, Zigs, Ledge, Paul, AndyO and of course Brox & Co!] caught it at it's peak at Watergate on the Wednesday [22nd]. Find out more below....
The journey down on the 18th had begun well but turned into a 'mare the moment we passed Michael Wood. The bottom line meant we arrived in Bude around 5.15pm after a near 10 hour journey; three and a half to four hours later than it should have been. A quick dash round the supermarket before getting signed in at our digs at Stratton before 6, meant we didn't get back into town to check what the waves were doing until around 7pm. The fatigue from the journey edged us towards leaving the boards back at base. A bit ironic that when you consider that the sight of 3-4ft offshore perfection at Middle Beach did prompt a reconsider, until we discovered that we were trapped in the car park courtesy of the carnival parade. Que sera ? Perhaps, but when I received a text message saying dad had been taken into hospital, the priority naturally shifted.
sun 19th A re-assuring chat with mum meant that I could relax for now at least, and get the first session in. Surely that magical sight the previous evening would still be around this morning even if it had dropped some....nah!....1-2ft onshore mush, which didn't offer much more than some loosening up and time to give Ben some coaching time. Two - three hours later we got out and managed to tie up with Brox & Co to make rough plans for the week ahead.
Zuma's board gave predictions of a good swell from Tuesday onwards, so we figured a session at Widdy the following late afternoon
mon 20th offered a chance of some early swell action. We weren't disappointed then to get some reasonably clean head high stuff for near three hours in the run up to HT; enjoying some good rides in the process and feeling more at ease in such conditions. Ben got more valuable water time as did Brox's lad's; Chris in particular who had apparently been doing extra P.E. at school in readiness. The nice thing was to see Brox's better half, Gill, don a wettie and get in; a new experience we understand, and company for Suz when the body boarders have to mix it with the bathers while the lifeguards are on duty.
tue 21st With yesterday being as it was, an evening sess' at Polzy appealed. This turned out to be an experience again as it did last summer when a freak thunderstorm with cloudburst had turned the beach car park into a quicksand lottery. This was after Ben and I had had an hour and a half at Middle Beach on the ebb in the morning, which had proved good fun.
On this occasion, and without realising, we had timed this visit with the highest tide of the year. This factor didn't become an issue until around 6.30-6.45pm. Even before last year we knew of the need to watch the car park around HT [this time around 7.30pm]. Today, with the surf being pretty big and messed up somewhat, we had already given up on trying to get any kind of decent rides thanks to the 'people soup' out there, and had had moved the vehicles accordingly, more than once as it turned out! The crowds gathering on the cliff sides to the beach and the arrival of a band had been noticed, but the realisation as to why didn't dawn until later. When it did, the comparison with the Titanic was surreal, particularly as some unwary drivers realised that their cars were starting to become wave fodder! Brox, Chris and I did actually venture in again as 8pm passed, the crowds now dramatically thinned out, and had a weird session with waves being sent our way from all directions.
'Big' Weds 22nd The OTL meet up at Watergate came into fruition after much texting. It had been toyed with to have an evening session for a week or so beforehand, and it wasn't to be a disappointment. With dad out of hospital too, it was like a weight off the shoulders. We got there around 5.30 and once everyone found each other we were in the waves by 6.15. It was certainly looking to being something special as were greeted with the sight of some well overhead stuff already thumping in with some 4+ lines of white water in front for good measure. This caused problems for most of us although Gav did get through straight away. I like most of the rest settled for the re-forms to begin with, to at least get some riding in. I got out around 7 to re-position on the beach just in time to meet up with Ledge who'd just arrived. We paddled out together and it was confirmation that this aspect of my surfing had improved at last insofar as I managed to keep up with him for some time, until finally getting caught in some heavier white stuff and getting knocked back. With the tide getting higher I took a chance again soon after and timed it just right. Now I was sitting out back for the first time today. Ledgey was there, and Gavin came over shortly too. Brox soon followed and it was not long before the real size of these things became apparent.
Ledge caught one or two I guess before I presume going in. I had tried for a couple but didn't connect. Gav then had a nice right and paddled back up to where Brox and I were. A set or two later and I went for one but mistimed it again, being too slow. Something clicked though and I really felt right for the wave that followed immediately. This time I paddled just right, got 'that' feeling, and didn't give the pop up a second thought. I was on my feet as sweet as you like and shooting down the face, turning nicely left in the process. The language was appaling as I questioned my sanity with this situation; but the ride, albeit relatively short, was mint until it was ended with an extravagant attempt to go back up to the lip again! I paddled back out easily, feeling probably as stoked as I have ever done. Gav, Brox and anyone else could see I'd cracked it by the body language. To cap it all, and went and did it again on a right shortly after, but I was shaking so much with excitement, I rode it in right to my son's feet who had also called it a day having enjoyed "his best session ever". Life couldn't feel sweeter at that moment, and the genuine stoke from everyone else was humbling.
thur 23rd This couldn't go on right? Planned to meet Parky at Widdy this evening around 6 and the conditions were still looking good. Not quite as big maybe, but still well worth it. When he and Phil arrived it was easily shoulder to head high and going glassy. As with yesterday, the weather was also playing ball with sun, warmth, and more or less clear skies. I got out first and had missed a couple as Parky got through the white water. Somehow my timing felt out, and I was now starting to feel fatigued as he got one or two rides in early on. The pace was different to the previous weekend but then I got one just right, getting the back hand turn just sweet in the process. After a while I went more central/south in the line up, while Parky stayed with the rights forming nicely towards the northern reef. When we met up later after a couple of hours in the water, I'd managed a reasonable session whilst he had apparently gone off the boil after a good opening hour or so. We made provisional arrangements for meeting up the following week before setting off. Soon after we heard that dad had been taken back into hospital which was of concern.
fri 24th Had a lazy day until catching with Brox & Co + Colin and friends at Middle Beach/Summerleaze for what turned out to be a much needed mellow evening surf for a couple of hours on the low to mid push. This had been boosted with encouraging news of dad's progress, the surf obviously a good antedote to these worries. It was perhaps waist to shoulder high at best and reasonably clean given a slight cross-onshore breeze. The swell felt as if it was on it's way out, but this was of no consequence as a really fun time was had with loads of rides and experimentation with moves, until it did finally drop off around mid tide as it started to flood Summerleaze. It didn't matter as hunger and a chinese beckoned after we'd seen off Colin and friends. Ben's progress continued with post surf reports of 'best waves ever' which now seem a daily occurance! Surely though we couldn't hope that there be waves at Widdy tomorrow
sat 25th before Brox & Co set off home?
Amazingly we could, and if anything it was slightly bigger. It was still mellow too and I know both Brox and I were straight away dialled in getting good long rides from the off. I hit a 'purple' patch in the first hour of the 2 hour session where everything I tried cracked off before fatigue kicked in. I even got in a 'coffin' ride by accident having popped up, totally missed my foothold and landed on my back on the board. Weird experience that I can tell you! We pitied Brox, Gill & Stephen though for their drive home, as Chris had caught easily his biggest ever wave, having sneaked one from right under Tony and I's noses in the process. Strangely, Ben too, also reported such, albeit from the shallows. It doesn't matter though, the lad is definitely benefitting from this visit and from what I have witnessed even from a distance his techniques show a lot of promise.
sun 26th In the morning Ben and I went into town to Zuma's to get some Solarex in readiness for some ding repair to his board, and to check the waves. From the headland we could see that it was still a couple of foot and cleanish but the stiffening N. breeze was cause for concern. By the time we all got in at Widdy around 4-5pm, it had crapped out and dropped to a foot and mushy. Got some rides of sorts before settling to coach[x?] Suz to her feet on my log with success being the reward. Glad she wasn't left out on the achievement stakes at last.
mon 27th was flat, and
tues 28th almost bombed too, until we got wind of another swell beginning which prompted a wander down the lane to see if there were signs of it at Widdy. To our delight there were and we rushed back for the boards to get a late evening surf in, in the continuing warm sunny conditions. Ben and I went out in the small clean offshore waves while Suz stayed onshore with the camera.[awaiting results] I got one or two notable rides early on before starting to struggle with the timing and positioning with sets that were well spaced apart. That said, as ever it was all very enjoyable. We wondered as we returned home if it would build sufficient for tomorrow when we due to meet up with Parky and his family at the Porthcothan bolt-hole. We weren't to be disappointed.
weds 29th We met Parky on his own in the morning, the plan being to nip to a 'secret' spot first before going to Watergate after lunch with Lorraine and the lads, Lewis & Samuel. When we got to this spot, it looked from the top of the steep cliff descent to be OK-ish and so we gathered the gear and made our way down. By the time Suz had got down having had to return to the car for her 'eyes', it looked to be getting bigger. Ben was the first one in, opting for the right hand shallows; I joined Parky out back shortly after. It was definitely getting bigger!!! We aimed at the right peaks, myself lining up with the rocks in the middle of the beach as a point of reference and noting to make sure I peeled left or right when take-off time arrived. I got into one pretty soon but the ride was shortlived. The next attempt produced similar results only this time I got planted into the I.Z. right in front of the mid beach rocks. Luckily I managed to get out of their way, keeping the board out of trouble too before riding a re-form back in. I got out again but it was getting heavier and after a short time closer in got out. Parky followed soon after and so we decided lunch back at the bolt hole was in order.
Around 4 we went over to Watergate and found it a good head high and do-able with only three lines max of white water to negotiate this week! Getting out back also proved easier and I soon opted to paddle over to the left peaks to the south of the beach. I caught four or five really enjoyable waves before returning back in to find out what was happening with the others. Ben was doing his usual; Wategate obviously agrees with him! Suz was taking it on by herself to give Sam and Lewis some coaching; relieving Parky of this duty. He'd been out more central/right and also joined me on the beach to compare notes before coming back out with me to those lefts. The remainder of the session produced fewer rides personally, probably from the break in the rythmn perhaps, although it was pretty bumpy when you did get to feet. Either way, the barbie and the beer bought a welcome finish to the day.
The remaining days,
thurs 30th - sat 1st were a bit of an anti climax wave wise although we did get in on each day despite the poo onshore stuff on offer. It was though probably our most successful visit ever. There was obviously the worry with dad, but that seems to have sorted itself now mercifully. Ben though has revealed himself to be a ......natural footer....shock horror! [grin] but I can live with that with the obvious progress made despite a lean year personally surf wise.
posted by wollocks at 7:28 AM
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