The text message from Naips yesterday morning read "2ft clean nicely lined up". What's a bloke to do but drop everything and make the most of it before another shortlived swell dies? And so it was for the second day on the bounce, I got in for a couple of hours at Skeggie. It's been a while since I've been able to do that regardless of where I was at the time; but nice all the same. I got there and was in by 12.45; about half an hour before high tide. Naips and 2 others were already in, and it was just as described. Sure, it was that bit smaller than Friday, but it was far tidier and looked a lot more comfortable to surf than you so often find here. The waves were nicely spread out and looked really inviting.

I quickly paddled out and immediately spun round to catch the first one that came my way, riding it sweetly down the line before pulling off to rejoin the others for some more. Naips was right, that one did have my name on it. Another such ride followed swiftly after and it looked as if this would be one of those memorable sessions. Sadly though, things began to drop off after high tide and was all but flat by the time I got out a couple of hours later. Even the spectating seagulls on the beach groynes looked less interested than they had done. All the same, I felt a lot better than I had done the day before; so the health benefits of this activity seem to be more justified than normal.
posted by wollocks at 4:31 PM

Since Sun/Mon I'd reckoned that today would produce a wave and I wasn't disappointed. The low that triggered it didn't hang around so I'll be surprised if there's anything tomorrow. Still, got in around 11.15 [HT around midday] and had a two hour session in 2-3 ft clean surf with a gentle offshore to fan the tops. Felt out of it for the first half hour as I'm still trying to shake the dregs from a cold last w/e. The ever cooling water seems to have helped things in that department. The mid hour produced the best rides for me, and I made the most of it before it started to drop off a bit from 1pm onwards. Russ and Rob were in by the time I got there, and one other guy arrived just as I got out. Crowds eh?
posted by wollocks at 4:15 PM

It's been 2 months since I last wet the board and I was worried it would show. Needn't have worried too much though. The East Coast has had some swell over the last week/10 days and I know that I must have missed a couple of days which would have been really good; work though had got in the way. HT at Skeg' was around 1.45pm and so I timed my arrival for around noon. A reasonably high tide due as well, bigger than my last visit, although as it turned out it was only 1-2 foot at best. Twas clean though, although you could tell the swell was on it's last legs with the SW breeze obviously beginning to have an effect from the Wash, with some cross waves taking what impetus away. All said and done though I did get a couple of noteworthy rides in the 90 mins or so I was in, which was a couple more than I would have expected not that long ago! Met up with Naipsey on his sponge who had some fun closer in. The bottomline though was that the pleasure that is surfing has shone through again after a busy time of late, and a disturbing one just before. Maybe one day the peace that can be found beyond the shorebreak can be translated to the outer world!?
posted by wollocks at 5:46 PM