Boxing Day 26th December 2001
I'd reckoned that there'd be a wave today at Skeg', but couldn't have imagined how good it would be! Ceefax had put Cayton at 3-5' but messy because of a NW breeze. That isn't normally a bad thing down here although local weather reports put it more W and lighter. Had intended to get there around 1pm, 2-2.5 hours before HT, but got delayed and ended up arriving around 2.15pm; this also after a series of text messages and a call from Naips. The final text put it at 2-3' and nicely lined up clean(ish) sets. When we arrived [Suz & Ben came along to get some fresh air], it had built some and was as an impressive sight as I've ever seen there. The average set wave was a good head high plus and it was pumping. Christmas Day had been as good too, but then I had been otherwise occupied.

The cross rips were a problem though and I had a 'mare of a time trying to break through out back. I first went in around 2.35, but it was several attempts and a good 30 mins+ before I got it timed just right and made it! What had been on the verge of being a disasterous session suddenly came alive. There wasn't a great deal of daylight time left but the next half to three quarters of an hour were exhilarating. It was great just being out there with the others on what was the busiest day [6-7 of us at most] I'd seen for ages. I missed a couple and pulled off at take off on another before getting a beaut' which took me at a speed not often experienced here along the face before getting whacked on the head and off by a sneaky lip which caught me unawares. No probs though, the paddle back into position was easier now as the tide had slackened off, and I finished off by getting a smaller one in to shore to call it a day.

Yesterday 27th December 2001
It was probably a long shot but I popped back today on the off chance of a small end of swell session late on. Cayton was now 2-3' which is borderline for us but why not?! I was in by 2.45 but it was clear this wasn't going to be the greatest surf. The tide was obviously a higher one today as it was well in already, with HT around 4.30. It was only 1-2' at best but as I'd made the effort to get there.... I'd had enough after 45 mins or so with the waves proving extremely fickle to catch. Not only was the size down but the speed was too; set frequency was also poor. And so it was perhaps an achievement to catch any at all. Not to worry, it was good to check the grip factor on the newly cleaned and [cold] waxed deck, that I'd spent this morning doing after noticing of late how much like a bar of soap it had become.
posted by wollocks at 10:53 AM

Yesterday had been better than I had anticipated, so I heard, as I had presumed the wind to have been too gusty. That said I had been otherwise occupied and with the breeze forecast to drop, I was expecting conditions to be far more manageable. I got to Skeg' and was in an hour before high tide with it in the 2-3' range and the occasional larger one just to provide a little variety. It was as clean as you like and fanned by a gentle offshore. The sun was bright and the skies clear which, with the ankle deep snow on the beach made for a photogenic winter scene.

Unlike Thursday, although probably because of, I got into my stride from the off snagging the first wave nicely that I went for which as ever, put some extra 'umph' into the paddle back out, ready to get stuck in again quickly. For the first time ever though, during the session quite early on, I managed first to lose an earplug during a wipeout, and soon after, a tw&t cap. [Following a tip a couple of years back, I use a swimming cap to keep me bonce warm during winter..far cheaper me boy!] I decided a short while after to get out and pick up my spares; I dunno I kind of feel nekked without m'plugs at least at this time of year. Good practice anyway to prevent getting the dreaded surfers ear.

It was around high tide now and it had definitely dropped off which often happens here. Happily though, once the tide started to turn again and begin to pull out, some nice if smaller sets started to re-appear, now being in the waist to shoulder-high size. Managed to get some more notable rides before getting out after two hours or so in. Will try to get back tomorrow for a Christmas Eve surf, if ceefax gives me the final nod with the Cayton report in the 2-4' range. Naips should be there as well, and hopefully I'll have Ben with me for moral support even if he can't get in, whereupon he may be able to get a few fresh piccies for the site too. laters...
posted by wollocks at 5:27 PM

The long range weather forecast last Sunday, gave promising signals for Weds/Thurs onwards. The northerly airflow started to kick in yesterday as forecast, although I suspect it wouldn't have reached Skeg till late on. Last night's charts confirmed my hopes and I decided to get myself to Skeg' around HT at 9.30am this morning. With a bit more willpower I could have gotten there sooner, but in hindsight I was glad I hadn't. Sure it was cold and icy when I got in, but the cross rip so often associated here with any swell had slackened off and was beginning to go in the opposite direction instead. This is usually easier to handle, which was important to me today after a 3 week lay off which also saw me using my inhaler more than I'd like.

The paddle out was pretty straightforward and it was clear that the consistent shoulder/head high sets were well established on this tide. As is noticably the case these days, I felt perfectly at ease if a little rusty. It took about about 15 minutes to get into the rhythm and I did get dumped a couple of times before finally connecting with a nicely walled up wave that I rode sweetly until pulling off. Just what was needed. From this point on though, the swell size did seem to drop some but then this is quite normal for here. Position and timing needed to be altered accordingly. That said, what was left was still well do-able and would be considered sound enough on most days. I only stayed in for an hour+ on this occasion though, having a weather eye on keeping in good shape for what looks to be a long lasting swell; certainly by Skeg standards. laterz..
posted by wollocks at 2:52 PM

It's been dead for some time now, mainly thanks to a persistant high pressure which has sat over the North Sea for several days. Looks as if this could be about to change so watch this space!!
posted by wollocks at 7:45 PM