With the knowledge that Naips, Rus & Rob were likely to be there, the prospect of a good session seemed dashed on arrival with the news that it didn't look too inspiring. Past experience reminded me how quickly that could change at Skeg', and sure enough by the time we were suited up, it was picking up. With the offshore breeze just that today, it made for an easier time of it and I was quickly into my stride. Very soon it was clear that we were going to be in for a memorable session. The craic was good and it was fun sharing the waves with a handful of buddies as we were.

There were some nice even shoulder high sets coming in by the time it was an hour before HT, and I was stoked by the quality [and quantity] of my successful take offs compared to what I'd call normal for me. Some of the drops were fearsome too, but it was my timing and positioning I felt really good about. Sure many of the rides were ended prematurely, but I can't say I've had such a fun time at Skeg'. Just short of three hours after getting in we called it a day...then it was time to strip off and change in freezing rain. Suckers? nah!
posted by wollocks at 7:14 PM

Got in yesterday for another hour and a half in 1-2' and a very strong offshore which until it dropped late on did create some problems. Surfed either side of HT [2.40pm] and had my lad Ben with me for his first proper taste of winter action. Not unsurprisingly he didn't last long this time; the nature of the beach [I.E. steep] prevented him from being able to play on the inside, and so keep warm through being active. Shall work on his strength and confidence from the Spring onwards and have him out back with the 'big boys'. Then he'll find Skeg' more of an option.

As for my own sess', well it proved the usual mix of good rides and missed waves; timing and positioning being as crucial as it is here to get on the wave before it gets too steep [for me at least!]. With the offshore as strong as it was, the swivel round to begin the paddle into the oncoming wave did prove a challenge on occasion; the nose of my log often acting as a sail and being pushed back in the opposite to the preferred direction.

Suz and Ben did get to see my best ride for once and cheered loudly from the shore. makes a change this as normally one or other is either in the water themselves, or looking the other way. With a calmer day forecast for today, some shuffling of arrangements mean I can get in again this afternoon. Ceefax puts Cayton at 4-6, so Skeg' by rights should be at 3' at least. Can't wait!
posted by wollocks at 12:42 PM

Looks as if I may get some more surf tomorrow as long as the wind dies some. Also, if anyone wants to get some South African action, check out Dawn Patrol who are based in East London [SA].
posted by wollocks at 6:15 PM

Eight weeks since I last surfed!!! Sure, work has dominated but there has also been a distinct lack of waves on the east coast since that Christmas swell. We'd been looking forward to a long weekend down in 'zance though with Gav & family so surely that would end the drought?

Nah! The gloomy forecast of the last week looked to have put the mockers on that so we'd been forced to postpone this morning. A long way for us to go to watch the effects of full onshore gales we figured; we'll get down west in April instead, and for longer. There was some consolation in that a swell was running down the east coast today and had been since yesterday as Naips took great delight in pointing out ;o) So I decided to catch the first two hours after high tide [noon-ish] at Skeg' by way of softening the earlier disappointment.

This was also the chance to try out some new gloves I'd bought in from Wessex Watersports to see if their lightweight Dry-Gloves could do the business. [They could as it happens-warm and light on the paddle] Not unsurprisingly though it took me some time to get into any kind of rythmn after such a lay-off. It must have been a good 20 minutes or so before I caught my first decent ride in pleasant shoulder high waves. But recent farm sub contract work had done wonders for my fitness levels and I was feeling sharp. This enabled me to get my fair share of fun waves before the effects of the changing [from W - S] and increasing wind effect, which was causing a localised cross swell, eventually brought my session to an end after an hour and a half. With promise of further northerley swell for the weekend, I think I can wait till April after all.
posted by wollocks at 6:46 PM