The pull of the sea got the better of me. It's been an age [10 weeks!] since my last surf, a fact aggriavated by the need for total rest over the last 3-4 weeks, because of the ribs.

It wasn't totally inspiring on arrival although there was clearly a wave to be ridden. The breeze [NW] was cross-shore and tending to mess up the 2-3' swell, and so I got suited up. Conscious of the injury I did some extra warm-up's before going in. Paddling out was a relative 'mare. I felt totally out of shape when compared to my last action which had felt as strong as it'd ever been. Some work to do here I reckon!

Managed to get out in the end and was relieved to find that my take-off, drop and ride was as I'd left it back in the Spring. I was pleased to catch everything I went for; two in particular which saw me wander further up the nose, and get a hair parting from the lip too. Fatigue meant I called it a day after barely an hour, with more than an hour and a half to HT. The paddling had loosened somewhat too, but I can feel that working on the upper body strength is a priority.
posted by wollocks at 11:29 AM

Prospect of a wave over here in the east from today onwards..which is nice. Rib seems to be knitting back together nicely so do I give it a go this evening or not....?
posted by wollocks at 11:21 AM

2002 has been a lousy year surfing wise for me so far. Sure there have been some good quality sessions; it's just that there has been a chronic lack of waves this side of the UK. That, or the lack of opportunity. Now, nearly two months since my last surf, I'm going to be unable to for maybe another 4 weeks or so, thanks to a fractured rib. The annoying thing is, it was courtesy of a pretty innocuous incident whilst shearing last week. Bu99er!!!!
posted by wollocks at 4:25 PM