Went over to Huttoft late yesterday afternoon with the prospect of some more waves what with Cayton called at 2-4' and a suggested 3' over at Cromer. Unfortunately though the swell hadn't actually bypassed us here on the Lincs coast, it was barely a couple of foot and messy due to a persistant and unexpected onshore breeze. Throw in a plethora of anglers and after about an hour of watching hoping for some improvement, for once I just couldn't be bothered. Might have been a different story had I not got in last Saturday, however....
posted by wollocks at 5:03 PM

Didn't have time after I got back from Huttoft to post this:

Sat 20th September: Earlier in the week the chance of some swell on the east coast this weekend had slowly subsided; the general thought being it'd occur early next week instead. So it was a bit of a surprise to see ceefax had Cayton at 2-4' and increasing tomorrow [Sunday]. Seemed too good an opportunity to miss so I texted Naips and prepared to set off after a quick bite.

Arrived about half an hour before HT [due 13.45] and decided to observe first before committing to the car park and just see if any of the others were there yet. They weren't, but there did appear to be sufficient waves to have some fun with; maybe 1-2' and clean, but no more as HT does often flatten things off on this stretch of coast. Throw in some late summery weather and it would have been difficult to not have got suited up and gone in.

There was only one other in as I did my pre-surf stretching, so I chose to go a bit futher north along the beach to try my luck there. For half an hour or so, I struggled to get into any kind of peak or rythmn and caught nothing. A southerly breeze was also gusting at times and messing it up some, and I was beginning to get the old feelings of frustration about this place, just as Naips and Russ turned up. I paddled over to where they had got in and almost immediately got into my first ride of the day. Weird but welcome.

From that point it was like getting back on to the proverbial bike, and plenty more waves came my way in the next couple of hours. Not classic but still fun and rewarding after a three week plus absence from the sea. During this spell, Rob eventually turned up just after 3, and conditions did temporarily deteriorate and become a bit choppier for a while before it settled down a bit when the breeze dropped. Around 4.30 I began to think about getting out as the waves did seem to drop right off, before a suprise extra pulse began to kick in which re-livened things up some. Before I knew it, I'd been in for just over 4 hours and now it really was time to catch one final ride, this time in.
posted by wollocks at 4:02 PM

Have managed to scan in some photo's from our summer trip west. Don't expect top quality images as they were only taken on a cheapo waterproof camera. Viewable by clicking on this text link, or by using the home button above. Use the 'Latest shots from summer 03 [here]' text link below Photo displays when there.
posted by wollocks at 5:43 PM

Sat 16th Aug: Mare of a journey from our overnight stopover at Cheltenham seemed to put paid to any chance of some water time. Had expected to find it flat anyway, but after some nagging from Ben decided to head off to Widdy around 6pm. Did surprisingly find a small wave by then had formed with the tide now on the push [HT-21.09], and went in with Ben for a short surf with the longboard between us taking turns. Earlier we purchased Ben a new summer steamer, buying an Xcel wettie from Zuma's.

It was still small the next day [Sun 17th Aug] and onshore, but still went in for three hours after low tide [15.42] to make the most of what was going. Helped Suz to her feet properly for the first time on the log, which pleased her no end; and why not! Also must note Ben's return to form in the water which included a noteworthy late take off and clean pop up, on a sharply steepening wave.

On Monday [18th Aug], I surrendered at last to my old Gul summer suit which has served well [?] for some 5 years+, and went mad buying a C-Skins Razor 3-2 steamer. Got to try it out later after low tide [16.10] with a pleasurable 3 hour surf at Wid' in some lumpy, but do-able 2'+ waves. The breeze though onshore, had lightened by then and the difference the suit made to my paddling in particular was noticeable. My wave count too, regardless of the suit seemed to be rising; a fact more satisfying with some recent problems seemingly taking a hold. These problems though paled into insignificance with news from Parky about his dad taking a turn for the worst healthwise, thus causing the postponement of a planned meet up.

The wave size had dropped some on Tuesday [19th Aug] to a still messy but ridable 1-2'. The breeze was still light and onshore, but this didn't seem to detract from us all to enjoy a 3-4 hour surf in the evening after low tide [16.45]. Ben's confidence has definitely returned and it was great to witness the broad grin as father and son shared a couple of '2's up' rides completely unplanned.

By the time we met Maggie [one of Suz's clients] at Polzey the follwing day [Wed 20th Aug] , both he and I were in our own respective 'grooves' as it were. The waves were smaller, though a little cleaner despite the breeze STILL being onshore. Suz dipped out from going in, not just to be sociable, but the ususal 'People Soup' was as bad as expected. Ben and I got the best of it in the first half of our in and out 4 hour stint, before it totally poo-ed out a couple of hours after HT [11.10am].

On Thur 21st Aug we played host to one of Ben's mates; Gavin, and spent the day at Wid' introducing him to the joys of surfing. Both he and Suz had the use of a hired swell board each, and it is fair to say they both made the most of it. The weather wasn't sparkling, though the waves had increased in size to provide a surprisingly cheeky 2-3', albeit messy and onshore [yet again!]. I got straight out courtesy of the new suit I'm sure, and was immediately into the waves, a pattern I maintained throughout, and one that seemed to be coming the norm. A month ago even I'd have struggled to get out in this type of conditions, now it seems anything was possible. This made the banzai rides I took time and again that more pleasurable! Notably too, Ben took time out from his coaching duties with Gavin and made it out himself in easily the biggest lumpiest conditions he's experienced, and snagged a couple of great rides in the process. Don't tell me he wasn't stoked by that either!!

Although conditions were similar on the 22nd, we'd opted for a rest day in view of an interesting forecast of swell and offshores for several days. Hadn't expected it to go off quite as quickly as it did though....

Went down to Wid' a little earlier than planned following some ... how shall we put it?.... 'nagging' on Saturday morning [23rd Aug]. As it turned out, and in view of the fact a text from Naips informed me of Russ and Rob's imminent arrival, I found myself paddling out just after Ben around 10 am in misty calm and some nice clean 2' waves. Didn't see the lads out there initially despite seeing Rob's car in the car park, but did quickly get into a nice rythmn, enjoying some pleasant rights and lefts almost at will. Ben, despite getting out back initially before I got in, settled into a pattern on the inside before getting out, I presume around noon.

I say presumably, as after a slight lull, the swell seemed to build as the tide got higher up the beach. By then it was becoming great fun and I was quietly amazed as to how easy I was finding it getting into this bigger cleaner stuff. Not just that, but the confidence I felt to try things out during the rides themselves surprised me too; the exception being some genuine cross-stepping. I don't know what it is, it may be me of course [more likely!], but my board just doesn't seem to like it when I get beyond the Zuma badge, pearling without fail. Anyway, well stoked, I caught one in around what turned out to be 1pm to check on the others.

After a short break and some light munchies, I went back in still with the adrenaline flowing. The initial paddle out was a struggle though as I seemed to lose a little momentum, but this didn't last and I went on to enjoy a further 2 hours of clean, solid 3' fun. Tagged up with Russ at last too and we traded waves with ease. The burnt nose and head was worth it though, and it was nice to hear from my spectators on the cliff as to the better quality of performance I'm now seemingly managing. By my standards, this was pure stoke.

Word in the line-up was that this pulse of swell would subside overnight, and it did. It didn't though drop enough to deny Ben and I a very entertaining 2 hour surf before lunch on the 24th. The breeze was still offshore and there was a very do-able 1-2' clean wave to make the most of. Began with a short photo session with the cheapo waterproof camera we'd got for the occasion, before temptation overcame us both to concentrate on riding the waves. The weather brightened too and we both got into a nice 'paddle-out/ride/paddle-out/ride' rythmn. If only it could always be like this as there is no doubt surfing with my lad is one of life's greatest pleasures. Having Suz' into it as well makes for a pretty cool family set-up. Now all we've got to do is sort out our location 'problems' and get moved west asap. [I know we've been saying that for far too long, but it will become a reality; I promise!]

We all three of us went in later that evening, though the wave size had dropped. It was still a fun surf though and we all enjoyed plenty of rides in what was clearly a nice longboardy wave. Even tried some reverse take offs on mine, though I'd have to concede there's a lot of work to do before that becomes part of the reportoire.

Surprisingly there was still a small clean wave the following morning [Mon 25th Aug] and so we got in before low tide and before the Bank Holiday crowds took a hold. There was less substance to the waves but we still all had a tidy little surf, notable in particular for one of Ben's rides which caught the eye early on as we were about to get in ourselves. He is clearly enjoying his surfing more and more, and his potential to improve is obvious. The rest as they say is down to him. We went back in for a second stint later, and with the weather so nice it seemed a good opportunity to go out in rashie and boardies. This proved an un-inspired move and I got out feeling that it hadn't been worth the effort. Ben enjoyed himself though and didn't get out till well past 8pm; not for the first time this trip.

Tues 26th Aug: Monday evening's disappointments were quickly forgotten as a fresh pulse of swell seemed likely today. I waited for the afternoon push before venturing down to Widdy, which proved to be the wisest call. A nice 1-2' and clean wave greeted us around 2pm, which didn't hinder the speed with which we were suited up and in. It was also nice to have a less crowded line-up and beach, what with the rain that morning, and the disappearance of the BH crowd.

By the time 'they' did arrive, we'd enjoyed plenty of mellow rides which included yet another 2's Up with Ben. I'd got into a very nice 2' plus left and could see Ben paddling furiously ahead of me, determined to get up also. As I glided past, I shouted encouragement as it seemed it may pass him by and to his great credit dug a little deeper with his paddling and caught it too. With him up and riding I planned to turn harder to force him to do similar, to get him along the face, but he'd already done this. I then pulled off and watched with pride easily his most accomplished [and witnessed] ride ever. What a guy!

I also got chatting with one of the surf school instructors about his 'tough day at the office bit' ! Turned out also that he has a similar board to mine, and that nose riding was seemingly impossible for him too [Interesting]. 'They' also didn't crowd things out as, after a short lull, the swell began to build to a very solid 3' sometimes plus, and the surf got really interesting until I finally got out after 4pm. From that point it was Saturday revisited and confirmation that there has been visble improvement with my ability levels. No need to add that the stoke continued?!

Later that evening I spoke with Gavin R about a proposed meet up later in the week. The signs showed that any serious swell would hit late in the week after all, and more likely on the south coast. We decided to speak again the next day [Weds 27th Aug] and confim details for Thursday. The predicted drop in swell locally occurred on Weds which only produced a lacklustre 1-1.5 hour surf for us in gutless 1' clean waves. Managed a handful of rides early on when there was a little more to go for, but it wasn't in any way satisfying. What a difference a day makes......

Not half! Come Thursday [28th Aug]and our meet up with Gav' and it was obvious from his call as we drove down to Penzance that it was going off. He'd already had an early surf by the time we arrived at his around 10.30 and confirmed that there was significant swell on the south coast. A web cam check showed nothing on the north coast at Sennen, and so Praa got the nod for that afternoon. Our arrival around 1 revealed that things had built to easily 4' plus and solid with the beach also being red flagged to bathers as a consequence, with the low tide heaviness well apparent. We decided to grab a hot choc and observe for a while to see if it would mellow a little as it pushed, but it didn't to the obvious frustration of Ben. His time for this sort of thing will come soon enough; to be honest, I had to make my own leap into the unknown as well.

As Gav and I suited up and walked along the beach to some less 'inhabited' peaks any doubts were forgotten as the old spirit which has served well in my past kicked in. I did begin to wonder as I had to bide my time and wait for another break in sets to get out, but I managed it and with relative ease. Sitting out there with Gav' and in mind of the progress I had seemed to make even in the last fortnight, I took my time getting a feel for this new situation. There were some serious waves coming through and it took a while to get the timing right, then boom! Gav had just paddled back from his second wave when I got into a large right myself. It proved relatively easy to catch and I know the ride itself wasn't technically special on my part, but I rode it to it's close-out conclusion, and returned to the peak punching the air in joy.

Reality returned soon enough with a drilling on my next attempt, but I learned from it and soon got into another which I rode with a lot more thought before pulling out voluntarily. Gav had also snagged the next wave which had him wiped out literally on top of me. Turned out no problem though; I'd seen him coming anyway and had grabbed my board and ducked down to try and minimise any contact which didn't occur. His concern for me was appreciated but wasn't needed, something I re-assured him of as we paddled back into position.

My third wave was the sweetest so far, and allowed me to take a moment to look around at these new surroundings as I glided past Gav's left shoulder. Time seemed to stop still as I went up and down this masterpiece of nature, provided by a new break to me, and my first ever surf on the south coast. It couldn't get any better. For the remainder of our two hour stint, I took another couple of drillings, one in particular; but also managed a couple more notable rides. My one and only left was one of them, and it was this that summed up just how big some of these sets were, as a never ending drop culminated in a very satisfying bottom turn. Looking back up the face just filled me with awe which will stay with me indefinitely.

Around 4pm we both rode one in, me in particular with an extra spring in my step I'm sure. Gav' is more used to this kind of thing, but me.... Oh boy. Thoughts though turned to the others and after saying ciao to Gav' made the journey back to Bude to see if there was a wave for Ben. Unfortunately there wasn't and this sadly concluded our wave action for this visit. Never mind, hopefully our next journey will provide the means of a more permanent visit.



posted by wollocks at 10:09 AM