Happily I got in again as hoped yesterday [Sat] where a visit to Sandilands became possible with Suz, Ben and a couple of Ben's friends; Ben & Katie who'd come along to get some coaching from Ben. Luckily conditions had altered sufficiently to allow this; something that had been put in doubt following my experiences the day before. The very light breeze had veered onshore as forecast, but at least on arrival just after low tide around 3.30pm there was a rideable swell showing through; and not too messy at this stage. To add a little more plus factor the weather was bright and sunny which hadn't been expected.

By 4 we were all in thereby giving around an hour and a half for the novices to be put through their paces before the tide reached the ridge, making only the shore dump open to them. While the others headed to the shallows, I made my way to a more northerly point before getting in to allow for the rip, which as it transpired had lessened since Friday; probably owing to the switch in direction and reduction in force of the breeze. The sea was a tad to lumpy for any quality to be enjoyed but at least the set size made for some fun to be had. However, such as the sandbank set up is at the moment, there wasn't much in terms of long rides to be had. You shouldn't have to pump a longboard should you?!

Even so, it was nice to see Suz get in for the first time this year; as ever enjoyable to be joined out back by Ben; and who knows maybe Ben's mate, Ben and his sis' Kate may one day embrace the surfing lifestyle. They certainly seemed to enjoy themselves and round the evening off after Suz and I had already got out after a couple of hours, by making the most of the shore dump on their body boards. I'd called it a day after one last paddle out into a messier but larger wave and catching one last ride all the way in following some delicate foot work to keep the boards momentum up under protest.

Now keeping an eye on hopefully another swell later in the coming week. If nothing else we should all at least have brushed off the cobwebs before our trip to North Cornwall on the 5th of next month for a couple of weeks.
posted by wollocks at 7:14 PM

Having had another enforced period without any surfing, I finally got to the beach yesterday afternoon to try and take advantage of a useful looking swell running down the coast. Before setting off I heard from Naips that Sandilands was a good size but blown out by an annoying N'ly breeze and so Skeg was [as I had expected] the chosen venue.

On arrival [4pm] I was greeted to find a pretty messy but do-able wave building 2 hours or so into the flood. If that cross-shore breeze would only drop was the main train of thought. Throw into the equation the prospect of an inevitable heavy cross-shore rip because of the Spring Tide and this could turn into a trying outing.

As it was, the initial wade out was tricky with the thick gloopy mud near the low water mark making things interesting! Anyway, the paddle out was easy and within 15 minutes I had 2 decent rides under my belt to get the confidence going....and then it was time to get out for the first time near the pier, some 800yds or so from where I'd got in; if not further!!! This was to be the pattern of the next 3 hours, though after an hour I tended not to walk much further than the first groyne or so past the North Shore car park ramp.

And with good reason, by 5.30 and still only about mid flood, the breeze had eased as wished for, and a cleaner, bigger wave was showing there. Getting through the shore dump required patience followed by a quick fast burst, but the rewards were worth it more or less. Positioning over the better peaks was difficult, otherwise waves were missed; but when you did it was helter skelter from thereon. All in all, worth the 3 hour effort as the aches and pains will testify. Now I hope for more of the same later today.
posted by wollocks at 2:50 PM