Sat 29th July: The latest journey began a little after 10pm last night as planned, and as with Ben and I's inaugural trip down in Boris, went without hitch or drama. Being more loaded with stuff to last a fortnight rather than two days, and with an extra person, dog, bike and other periphery we perhaps added 20-30 minutes actual driving time than before. Even so there is something more in the way of adventure with this mode of travel, enhanced more than likely by the 'red eye' nature we have undertaken.

It had materialised late in the day yesterday that we could have driven down on that day instead and wangled an extra day in the process. As it was we were informed that the key would be under the mat for us to drop off our excess gear at whatever time we arrived in the early hours. Setting off when we did, I'd estimated we'd be at Poundstock somewhere between 6-7am after a nap break at Michael Wood, and a re-fuel & provisions stop at Barnstaple. Encouragingly we seemed to have been a bit easier on the fuel too as we sailed past the Tiverton Services and managed the further 34 miles to Barnstaple and then some. As predicted we rolled up at our digs a little before 7 and after ditching the un-necessaries were at Widemouth around 7.30. And boy wasn't it worth it as the waves were firing with a solid 4' clean swell greeting our weary eyes with an hour and a half to go before high tide.

All the fuss about Gwith the previous day went out of the window as the Old Man once again showed method in his apparent madness. The weather was obviously on the turn as forecast and how long this window would last before the breeze switched from a cross off to worse was anyone's guess. Regardless Ben and myself changed in record time, set the fins of our boards forward in the boxes for a looser feel and quicker turn and ran out to the waters edge. Suz had opted not to go in at all, the journey obviously taking more out of her than hoped and besides there was the pleasure in introducing Charlie to Cornwall and the Atlantic. Early indications are he likes both!

Meanwhile back out in the waves, Ben and I successfully negotiated a heavier paddle out than of late and set about the business in hand. Rides were few and far between early on as we both sussed out the form. For once it was me to claim the first ride of the day which seemed to give Ben the encouragement to put in that extra stroke and go for it in as large a swell as he has experienced so far. His first then came soon after when he paddled for a nicely shaped beast that he almost missed but for some quick foot movement forward on his deck to get that extra bite. This lit the fuse for a performance as good as he's ever managed with confidence and competence in bucket loads. This was further emphasised by his reaction and recovery to some heavy nailings with humour and determination.

Somewhere in the background I was enjoying myself too and more than keeping up with his wave count. But then in these bigger conditions it is perhaps no surprise as I at least have experience to fall back on. I relish any challenge and have no concept of quitting however difficult it gets; hopefully this is rubbing off on Junior! I was pleased with all aspects of my technique today and probably finished with 15-20 notable waves in the 2+ hours spent in the water. There was variety too from the well taken with a good powerful turn to taking off with the leash caught in my toes! It don't matter to me as they all count and all add up to a shed full of fun.

Hunger finally drove me to ride one all the way in ready for our planned cooked breakfast in the van. Ben and me had begun talking of it as we neared the end of the session and were making each other feel even more ravenous. Pity then when Suz informed us of our cock up on the catering front. In our haste to get to the beach, we'd left the supplies back at our digs sitting in the cool box ready to go! We settled for less and then spent some time recuperating in and around Boris. Perhaps against better judgement we both went back in near to low tide which only resulted in a complete antithesis of the mornings successes. Fatigue had kicked in and with a now messy onshore wave to battle against there really was only one winner, sending us both back in with tales between legs but no discontentment. Food and wine and sleep now beckoned. The question is, can we get up soon enough tomorrow...?

Sun 30th July: ....errr no we couldn't! Hardly surprising in view of the exertions the day before, and the lack of good nights due to the recent heatwave; it was nearer to 9.30 when we first stirred. Too late practically to dash to Bude and try and snatch the early ebb at Summerleaze; the best option as the breeze had picked up overnight to a gusty SW'erly. The later evening tide would be the next opportunity, consequently we made our way into Bude mid morning and parked Boris near to the dunes with a view to having a day at the beach and surrounds to bide our time and chill some more. This gave Charlie more time to acquaint himself with these new experiences and us an opportunity to hone our skills in utilising the van's assets. The swell was still with us and still as big as yesterday, but now of course it was being messed up and made more gnarly by the now onshore winds. However the sun was out and what showers there were around avoided us.

Around 5pm an hour and a half after low tide, Suz was the first one to crack when Ben and I insisted she got in for the first time on this trip. She'd have probably been better off going in a little earlier to make hay in the banzai white water that we'd seen earlier but it didn't matter as she enjoys it more once the zoo have gone home to get ready for their evening plans etc. I followed her down soon after to watch for a bit and managed to stub my big toe in the process which turned the air blue for a while. I returned to the van to get changed to go in and play some time after 6pm, and had the pleasure of bumping into Steveo from the Widemouth Bay surfcam message board in the process. We'd missed meeting on the trip earlier in the month by a whisker and so we chatted for a bit as Ben and me got ready.

I suppose it was sometime around 7pm when we finally got in as Suz was getting out after her water time. The tide was now rapidly filling the area behind the breakwater which gave us more scope to exploit the cleaner waves in it's lee. The sheltered reforms were in the 1-2' range while a bit further out the main beasts were easily in the 4' range. I headed out there while Ben opted to stay inside for a more sedate time. Using the rip from the river it didn't take too long to get out back and for half an hour or so I had a stab at things which were reminiscent of the days I'd had at Crackington a year previous. It was lumpy and wild at times, and vigilance was needed to make sure you didn't get guided on to the rocks near the sea pool. But it was fun and I was rewarded with three or more short but exhilarating waves.

The toe was a distraction though and caused me to compensate too much at times and probably miss a few more. Conscious of this I moved back in closer and played there instead nearer to Ben and allowing me to view his efforts. He was doing alright and did well on a couple of occasions to capture otherwise lost causes even after admitting he was still feeling the effects of the day before. I made the most of things until around 8.30 before returning to Boris and a hot choc. Time does fly then as they say because it certainly didn't feel as if I'd been in for an hour and a half. Too much fun obviously!

Mon 31st July: After seeing most of June and July back in the east sunny, hot and crucially with any wind coming from an eastern quadrant, the weather pattern does seem to have altered to the opposite just when we need it as it was. Things are now relatively cooler, changeable and with the breezes coming onshore and certainly around the Bude area the only real option for a surf is to wait until a couple of hours or so before high tide and do Summerleaze. Again we just weren't up in time to get the morning tide and so we hung around Poundstock while Ben cycled into Bude. Mid afternoon we headed into town and found a spot near the dunes to take up residence until the water was far enough in to the harbour to get in. Encouragingly, although the rain began to settle in as early evening approached the breeze did appear to be dropping. We held our breath hoping this scenario held long enough, but had to cheat and breath again when bangers and mash were dished up.

Luckily this didn't seem to matter as when we suited up and went in around 7.15 it had held and there was promise of a much cleaner wave in the shelter of the breakwater. Things were still stirred up enough beyond but this would obviously feed through enough to make it interesting. Yesterday I'd used a boot to protect my toe but had found this odd and enough of a distraction to miss some waves I'd have otherwise taken OK. Though still sore I opted for the plaster only protection which may or may not last the duration [It didn't!].

The waves gradually began to filter though more and more and we both got into our stride from the off. One or two were missed still particularly when we took off from peaks which suddenly steepened quicker than anticipated, but in the earlier stages it remained mellow enough. We also on occasion ventured further out together this time and sampled the wilder stuff that was peaking in front of the rocks that protrude from the sea pool. Although we shouldn't have, we both fell into the temptation of riding them further in as the thrill of the banzai element initially was replaced with the second wind of the reform. Long paddle outs were the order for the time being then. Later on Ben opted to stay further in as I sought more of the thrills n spills, more so when we swapped boards for the last half hour or so before finally paddling in around 9.30. worryingly as we settled back into our digs the wind was noticeably picking up which didn't bode well for tomorrow.

Tues 1st Aug: We weren't wrong in our assessment as today was nothing short of a blown out mess. The swell was still there but the wind was still too strong and had switched round to the west with threat of veering further round to the NW later. Ben and I didn't bother venturing in though later on in the day Suz did get wet at Widemouth for an hour or so before the entire beach was red flagged. On coming in she reported that it wasn't anything special which surprised me, but then who am I to judge? At least the wind should drop sufficiently overnight to give us all something to play with. The initial plan was to head to Summerleaze for the morning tide but that was dependent on swell size and wind direction, neither of which forecast was convincing.

Weds 2nd Aug: This lack of conviction continued when we finally surfaced. The wind had indeed eased but was from the NW which prompted me to leap on the bike and have a visual from near to Widemouth Manor. The check confirmed that there was a rideable wave though the swell had dropped a little from yesterday. It was enough though to fire up after a quick breakfast and head to the Bay after speaking with Parky to make arrangements to meet tomorrow, Thursday. Once parked up and organised Ben and me were both in around half an hour before high tide [11.10]. At this stage despite the light breeze from the NW the waves were pretty well lined up with an acceptable shape. Ben paddled directly in front of the steps towards a defined right peak, while I ended up more in luck than judgment after a tricky paddle out mid way between Widdy & Black Rock. I wasn't complaining though as I quickly picked off three nice lefts to get me in the mood. I'd spotted Ben do similar and he seemed tuned in to the conditions too.

Strangely though, as quickly as I got into it, for a while I lost my way. I still managed to make the take off but the length of ride shortened as silly errors lead to wipeouts. Worse still, there was a brief interlude where even the take-off was poorly judged much to Ben's amusement now we were in the same patch of water. To my relief this patch didn't last too long but ride lengths weren't matching earlier on so I went in. Ben wasn't far behind and lunch was taken with the rest of the crew, namely Suz and Charlie.

After the break Ben went back in and Suz got suited up to go in for an hour. Now two hours or so into the ebb, conditions were still OK and so I settled in for some chill time in the van and watched the lads exploits through the binoculars. Credit to him as he kept positioned accurately enough to keep in view and provide enough entertainment before I nodded off with Charlie snuggled up contentedly. Before I knew it I was awoken as Suz re-appeared after some fun of her own which freed me up to go back in for a second bash though it didn't look as promising. This was confirmed by an incoming Ben but ever the optimist I continued on my way. Sometimes the glass is actually half empty as one ride of note later and plenty of chop slop was enough to say it wasn't worth the effort. Roll on tomorrow which can only be better...can't it?

Thurs 3rd Aug: Met up with Parky and his family at his summer pitch within spitting distance of Porthcothan around midday. His eldest son, Sam, was over at Newquay taking part in a skating contest running in unison with the Boardmasters, but we were to meet up later on his return. Lorraine was there along with Lewis and after a short while of catching up and finalising the days itinery a pair of father & sons disappeared of to the local beach for a couple of hours surf. The girls hung at base and did the girly chinwag thing enjoying the ever improving weather.

At the beach we found a rideable couple of foot of choppy wave and set about making the best of it until around 3pm. At this point we were to head Wadebridge way so Parky could pick up his Chris Harris shaped board won in a Wavelength competition, photo shoot and all. In the meantime I began where I left off yesterday and struggled to wire the place and conditions while the other three were into it from the off. Ben in particular was reveling in showing the old man up but gradually I found may way and by the time we rode one in the gap between between our wave counts was at least respectable [I'd managed around a dozen+ rides to his near twenty]. Lewis had done well and shown how he's progressed with around fourteen waves of his own which didn't quite match his dads score, but it was nice early on to see them share a wave.

The 'prizegiving' and photoshoot was next and we all piled into Parky's Zafira to make our way to CH's Black & White shaping works off the beaten track somewhere outside Wadebridge. The board itself was a nice piece of work finished in green and yellow with a thin black stripe close to the rail, to complete the South African feel to it [Chris in case you wonder hails from those parts]. At 8' it's shorter than anything he's had before and with a tri fin thruster set up oh did we tease him about going so 'short'. The question now was, is Parky going to christen that evening time permitting?

Silly question, of course he would! Upon returning from Wadebridge via the supermarket for provisions for the barbie later, the four lads hopped into Boris to snatch an hour more at Porthcothan. The tide was now around the low mark [6pm] and deceptively there was still a similar wave to be had. From the road it didn't look so but then that's why this small beach is often overlooked. This time it was me to outshine son as I went in with his board with the three fin arrangement and hooked three good waves in quick succession before he caught his first on mine. Parky though stole the show early on taking the first four waves he went for and was impressed with the way the board paddled. There then followed a version of musical chairs as boards were swapped about. I ended up on Parky's late on but missed my one and only opportunity when my trailing foot got tangled in the leash at the crucial moment. It didn't matter though as I'd had my share anyway and an appetite pressed.

Fri 4th Aug: When we finally all surfaced for breakfast, it was noted that Ceefax had Bude as 2' and messy. There was though barely a breeze emanating from the NW so once sorted we all piled into Boris and headed for Widemouth around 10.30 [time by now has become a periphery]. If anything the waves had a surprising amount of quality to them than of late, though it would be churlish to go overboard. There was something to 'work' with however and Ben and Suz were first in leaving me to dog sit Charlie. Although the sun wasn't out [yet], it was warm enough for Ben to opt for rashie and shorts. Watching from the van I could see he was enjoying it and I couldn't wait to follow suit.

Happily [?] I didn't have long to wait as Suz was back after around three quarters of an hour having had a reasonable enough time taking out the Emmetts in the red & yellows. I did though make doubly sure she'd had enough for now before dashing out to grab some action before it possibly poo-ed out; which it could if the breeze increased. As it was there was still a little local cross chop to keep you on your toes with wave selection, but not enough to really spoil things. Released from the relative constrictions of a summer wettie, the feeling of freedom particularly in the shoulder region was like a breath of fresh air. Of course, surfers from warmer climes [water wise at least] would think we're mad but it certainly allows more expression. Both Ben and I were snapping up waves at a far greater rate, no doubt in view of the quicker turn around in paddling back out to the peaks. To be honest we both enjoyed some really fun rides though I still can't claim to being a natural cross-stepper. I'll stick to the progressive stuff I guess ;o)

Hunger drove us to see how Suz and Charlie were getting on after around two hours I suppose, around high tide [1.20pm-ish]. Ben and I ventured back in after an hour or so's rest with the sun now out properly and the breeze still light - nil. The tide was now on the ebb but the waves still held their shape and if anything had picked up slightly. We continued where we had left off though the emphasis was more now on quality rather than quantity by which I mean I had my moments of toil. These didn't last that long, but just as you think you've got it wired, then out paddled Joss Ash to really show everyone how is was done. I never tire watching him surf though I bet he doesn't remember when we first shared the same space of water on the day I christened my longboard six years or so ago.

With another two hours or so under our belts we went back in with a view to perhaps call it a day and chill in the van for the early evening. The waves weren't as good anyway and fatigue was kicking in. That should have been that but it wasn't as we both got tempted back in close to low tide when they appeared to improve slightly again. Big mistake and we should have listened to our complaining bodies. Looks were deceptive too and we struggled manfully on with nothing to show for it for nearly an hour.

Sat 5th Aug: SJ on A1 Surf.com had [we'd heard] earlier in the week talked of a mellow longboard weekend on the north coast. Having left the beach yesterday evening we wondered whether this would be the case. The light breeze had veered more to the west but the question in our minds was would there still be swell. As it was reasonably late in the morning we skipped a pre surf check and went for it. The first glimpse of the sea at the Bay was encouraging though and looked a similar size to yesterday but cleaner with it. Once parked up Ben and me suited up and were in in good time to capitalise. After starting out trying the rights ahead of the steps I paddled over to the mid beach lefts that were showing and picked off one by one in a crowded line up. Ben had lined up with the rights also and stuck at it a little longer but with less success. He was getting a few rides but was finding it difficult getting any speed however he tried to alter things.

As time ticked by conditions if anything improved and the rides got better and allowed for lesser beings like me to try a few things. On one occasion I swivelled, thrust the board down into the water and allowed the movement forward as it came to the surface to get me into a wave without paddling. Having done the hard bit and then made a sweet turn, I goofed and muddled my feet up which led to the inevitable wipeout. On another occasion I rode one [successfully] with both feet tangled up in my leash! I was having a few problems with this old knee leash anyway and could do without this hindrance. Ben in the meantime had come over to where I was and bagged a better ratio to regain confidence before we both paddled in after an hour and a half or so.

This gave us the chance to grab some lunch and allow Suz a sniff of the fun afterwards. Not unsurprisingly she was itching to get in and enjoy some waves with the rays. Once the nosh had settled she and I made our way down leaving Ben to dog sit and snooze. Conditions were by now the best they had been all week since last Saturday morning which I managed to exploit for the next hour+, to put together a good sequence of waves. We now had the proverbial classic summer longboard scenario. Even so, I was conscious of the others' needs and so decided to ride in while on a high to allow both Suz to stay out and Ben to get in. I'm guessing it was somewhere around high tide [2.30pm-ish] by this time.

Ben was already in rashie and shorts chomping at the bit by the time I arrived back at the van. In a flash he was gone and in another was out in the line up to make hay while the sun shone. Not long after his departure Suz rolled up with the same thing in mind as I did. By then I was enjoying the break and decided to hang loose some more lazing around and watching Ben's progress through the binoculars. I saw him continue in his own sweet way with a succession of takes until one in particular caught my eye. A nicer looking set loomed which he and one or two others spotted and positioned themselves for. Ben checked over his shoulder but hadn't seen one of the others pop up a shade earlier and take the wave he was going for. By the time he did see the situation he had committed and tried to pull out to get out of the way. He almost succeeded but his board had other ideas and landed on the other guy's feet thus spoiling the wave. From my vantage point I saw some pointing and gesticulating and it was obvious matey was going to make his way back to put over his point. Ben by now was paddling back out to reposition as the other lad dealt with the inside which was by now awash with whitewater.

Eventually he did catch up with Ben but it did seem to be sorted in the right manner. Had it not I may have had to get out there pretty sharpish, but as it was I ambled back out at my leisure to join up with chastened son. I discovered that things were OK and that there was no bad feeling out there which was good. On a personal front I struggled to recapture the earlier form as I either missed the opportunities presented or made mistakes when hooking it right. The troublesome leash played it's part at times too and clinched it with regards nipping into ZJ's later. Ben had by now in his own words gone thirty minutes without a ride and moved back to where the rights were peaking. He must have had one then as the last I saw he was riding into the beach and back to the bus. I stuck it out a little longer but it was becoming clear I wasn't going to get much joy as the ebb was now having it's effect on the swell. I spotted Suz over in the red & yellows on my way in making the most of things; indeed when she came in an hour later she wore a big enough grin. If truth be told with the 'collateral damage' she creates she should have little images of tourist 'kills' sprayed on to her wettie!

Sun 6th Aug: We woke to a little more breeze in the air and at a slightly more normal time today with some hesitation as to whether to head to the beach first thing. Ben was volunteered for a quick check on the bike and came back reporting that there was still a couple or feet of swell if a little less clean. This didn't really answer the question marks but we jumped into the van and headed seaward anyways, with a view to grabbing a couple of hours there before lunch. Ben and me went in suited up for an hour and a bit and managed a handful of rides each in trickier conditions. There was nothing special for us to be had but it was more valuable water time for each by the time we paddled in to return to base for lunch for once. On the way out we were hailed down by Steveo after which we had the choice to go back to Poundstock vindicated by watching Button record his first ever GP win.

Once this excitement settled we ventured back to Widdy to see if things had improved any. The parking hadn't, but we eventually snuck into a space on the grass near to the road. The waves had perked up some and with high tide passed [15.38] they were of a far better shape and organised. I got suited up but went over to chat with Steveo who's van I'd spotted down the front. He'd just got out and reported that the afternoon had gotten better as time went by, if a little choppy at times. The feeling we had though was that the breeze would drop shortly and the wave would clean up some more. On cue it did around 5pm and so with Ben joining the party we all paddled out mid beach to see if it was as fun as it looked.

It was, and we were all soon paddling into some nicely formed 2-3' waves. Ben in particular was up to speed and got into his best form so far with a good wave count compared to us older guys. We still managed a good enough accounts of our own though personally I saved my best till later. There was a fair choice between rights and lefts, which required a quick check before take-off, to make sure you didn't head into the still busy red and yellows. I found this out on one occasion though only after I'd pulled out and got caught inside for a bit. Obviously while using this peak I figured the best option was to take a right to avoid the wrath of the lifeguards [which I hadn't btw].

After an hour the peaks further down the beach towards Black Rock started to show so we gradually edged that way. The fun continued and looked set to last. My form was now good but thoughts were turning to Suz and so I took one in around 6.30 and checked in. With it cooler now, less sunny and the pull of the waves still strong, I suggested she got suited up and instead of me staying back to dog sit, we lock up and all go in. Charlie wasn't bothered by all accounts as he was pretty settled in his den in the van, and so everybody happy. I left Suz suiting up and headed back out. Steveo and Ben were coming in at the same time though the former needed to head off to get checked in at Penhalt while the lad paddled back out with me on discovering that mum was on her way too.

By now the rights at the north end of the beach were hollowing out but we opted for these anyway. The take-offs were lairy to say the least which provided the adrenaline fix, but for me at least the rides were short with a dramatic finish! There was then the question of the remaining bathers and boogie boarders who were now in a position resembling that of those rabbits you see in your headlights. I didn't figure this a good thing so made the long paddle over to those lefts again. These were now taking on more substance and although the number of rides to be had was less, the quality was there to compensate. Ben hung around for a while before moving back a bit again, but I was in heaven more or less. Mr Ash had again showed up and after acknowledging me [and many other chums of course] proceeded to slash to bits everything he caught. I enjoyed a number of good lefts before stomach called enough and sent me in on yet another satisfying ride to get fed sometime after 8pm. Dinner in the van after capped a very enjoyable day. More tomorrow please which is set to see an increase in swell size, the only question mark is the weather, or rather the wind. Will it play ball....?

Mon 7th Aug: The morning was written off owing to a serious case of oversleeping on mine and Suz's part. It says something when a teen son accuses you of being a slug-a-bed. Consequently after a precursory check at Widdy we went into Bude to buy a few things as it didn't look that inspiring with the push still young. On returning to the Bay mid afternoon it did look as if the wave had built some and become a little more tidy than earlier. There was a light NW breeze and by the time Ben went in an hour after HT [16.37] it had dropped off more or less just as yesterday did. What was on offer was a 2-3' and lumpy wave which looked to be providing a challenging time. Ben's paddle out looked easy though and this convinced me to whack on the wettie at last and join him; for once he had been my 'guinea pig!

My paddle out was also straightforward although there would have been a time when I'd struggle in these conditions. Some of it would have been fitness, but most would have been inexperience in reading the incoming waves. I've also discovered a technique of helping the steering of the board with my feet. I settled near to a right peak near to the rocks that jut out at the southern end of Widemouth and waited my turn. One or two others had their glory before I hitched my first ride of the day, a short sweet left then right to get me up to speed. A couple more chances passed me by when Ben paddled over with the news that he had had a couple of rides in the time he'd been out. I didn't have long to wait and my next take-off turned into one of those 'suicidal' ones of yesterday evening. As then the landing following the drop lead to a dismount but with a lower stance I very nearly survived it. I regained position in time for Ben to hitch his next one and I got the feeling this could become quite fun.

Actually it didn't last much longer as after another half hour or so it seemed to poo out quickly as the breeze picked up a little again. Before then I missed one really good chance when dropped in by a careless individual. As ever I didn't allow this to bother me too much and my next couple of take-offs were rewarded handsomely enough with some exhilarating stuff. By now I'd noticed that Ben had taken one in and with the prospect of an impromptu bar-b-q I did similar but without the finesse. I took off on another bomb and got trashed, but hid my embarrassment sufficiently to belly the next to the shoreline. In some ways I'd have liked to stayed in a bit longer and try for some more. It didn't matter that much but with the charts not looking that promising, it was not inconceivable that this could be the last real surf of our time down here.
Tues 8th Aug: Ben has been having some problems with a minor foot injury that has refused to heal properly since treading on some sharp, dry seaweed early on in our stay. We decided it would be best to pay a visit to the local MIU at Stratton as a precaution, and get it cleaned up so as to avoid further complications. The surf on the way down hadn't looked that inspiring though again there was always the chance that this could change when low tide was passed and gave what swell was showing to grow a bit with the push.

Ben emerged from Casualty [almost 10 years to the day when I had following a rib injury surfing!] with his foot bandaged and news that the wound had been cleaned out and disinfected...and under strict orders to stay out of the water today. To cut the story short he didn't miss anything as there were no significant waves to be found. I had a short bash after lunch but quite frankly it was a waste of effort. I went in in rashie and shorts as the weather was fine and besides, to have suited up for such a gutless 1' or so on occasion would have been humiliating. I took 3 waves in quick succession, had to pull off as soon as I was on because of the learners [we all have to start somewhere] and decided that was enough.

The forecast is ominous with a high pressure stuck off the south west, and the local winds set to swing SW/NW and pick up, but ever the optimist I hope we can savour one more good session before making the long journey back to Lincs later on Saturday.

Weds 9th Aug: Well the breeze did pick up and swing to the NW to really mess things up. The only real chance was for high tide at Summerleaze [6.30pm] to provide some shelter and clean up the reforms. They did to a point but it was not really anything to go to any trouble for. On another day we'd have passed but with the feeling that a final opportunity could go begging does strange things. Ben and me crumbled and against better judgment suited up and went in. It wasn't for long I'm pleased to say, but provided enough time for some stiff paddling practice through a head-on strong breeze to a peak just off the sea pool five times; for five gutless long rides back to shore for good measure. It beat Ben's efforts which was something, he managing just three similarly unrewarding waves from closer in. Perhaps best not to speak of this further.

Thurs 10th Aug: The wind had if anything picked up overnight and was still strong come morning which did nothing to boost morale as our time 'home' draws to a close. After lunch we ventured down to Widemouth and were not surprised to see a mess out there. The consensus at this time then was of resignation that no real hope of a surf existed and so Suz and me went off for a beach comb, leaving Ben to 'entertain' the dog. We got back to the van and noticed one or two hardy souls had ventured in, notably Ash [J]. He as usual was making a mockery of things but watching him did alert some of us to the possibility that conditions may just be improving slightly. There was swell and even the hint that maybe the breeze was easing; whether by enough or in time was questionable, but it did inspire only son to abandon earlier thoughts of 'packing board away' for the duration of our stay, to get suited up.

I wasn't far behind in doing the same and was striding out around 4.30 into what looked a trying paddle out. Somehow I managed to negotiate things pretty well and positioned myself in the general area of some right peaks in line with the red & yellows. I sat there for a while and watched to see how things were shaping before going for my first wave. It was a satisfying take-off to the right but it petered out too soon and I kicked out when a cutback found no further energy to utilise. The paddle back was negotiated without major problem but was sign of things to come, for a while at least. As I repositioned I still caught no sight of Ben out back but figured he'd maybe settled further in. My next opportunity loomed in the meantime, but as I paddled for it there was a feeling inside that this wasn't quite right. The wave had suddenly jacked up some more and I was engulfed in whitewater which hindered my pop up too much. I abandoned the ride thinking I'd done so in time so as not to get caught inside; wrong! There then followed an increasingly trying paddle out as I got hammered every which way I tried.

I arrived back in the lineup just as Ben did; he'd made five attempts to get there and like me was on the verge of wondering if he'd make it. If nothing else it reminded us of the importance of not riding too far in at this stage of proceedings. But that wind had definitely eased off and although it was quite lumpy out there the waves were forming ever cleaner and increased a little in size too. Wave selection now became that bit more important and by and large this was achieved. Quantity wasn't the issue now, but quality was as I made sure I wasn't going to take-off on any wave to nowhere!! I suppose I managed seven or eight 'confirmed kills' by the end of my two hour stay at the crease but left it cursing missing one in particular late on that was perfectly set up and executed until my rail dug into too deep and tripped me up off what would have been the ride of the day. Not to worry as this session had been unexpected and bodes promisingly for tomorrow if the wind holds off long enough. Ben in the meantime managed a similar wave count and no doubt hoped he'd impressed Emma from Exeter.....

Fri 11th Aug: It was very much the case of deja vu on our last full day at the spiritual home. A similar pattern to yesterday was followed as conditions didn't do any favours; the north west wind having again picked overnight and not improving much till later on in the day. We killed time with the underlying mood as ever on such days perhaps not as jolly as you'd want. Without the distractions of a good surfing day it is perhaps inevitable that those old frustrations show through every now and then, but there is always the belief that the day will come.

In the meantime a rideable wave did finally show through at Widemouth around mid flood which prompted me to finally go for it around 5.45pm. Before this Ben had wandered out to the waterline to say hi to Emma who was again out there with her dad, though this time on the inside. Obviously the rip wasn't proving too kind. Anyway, I quickly suited up and again I timed the initial paddle out just right and settled in anticipation for whatever the ocean could throw at me. The first ride was only short and sweet, but at least this time I wasn't forced into a mare of paddle after....that came after the second which at least followed a nicely executed take-off which received hoots from a fellow surfer as he was on his way out. Enjoying the recognition I turned back up the face only for the fin seemingly to be caught by some cross current which sent me packing. Regaining myself onto the board I tried in vain to get back out through some relentless whitewater. Checking over the shoulder I saw that I had drifted further down the beach and having observed earlier that this was where every breaking wave seemed to be headed; the only sensible action was to get out and wander back to a more suitable launching spot.

This did the trick and I was quickly back out and headed for a mainly right peak nearer to the reef. Here I managed three or four more shortlived rides before I decided it wasn't going to get any better. The waves were promising much but delivering little in return. Maybe it was as much to do with the higher spring tide as with the less than ideal conditions but I'd clocked up another hour with some success to add further experience. Whether there'll be one last hurrah tomorrow remains to be seen though but stranger things have happened even in the last few days. Plus there is some consolation that maybe good ole Sandilands could compensate on our return east on Sunday.

Sat 12th Aug: Having loaded the van we said our au revoirs to Mrs Hall and began the process of making our way back to Lincolnshire. As on most occasions the plan was to delay actually hitting the road proper until mid afternoon as this allows the pack to zoom off and cleg up the roads in the process. It also gives us the chance for a final surf to ease the pain, subject to there being waves of course. We pulled into the the car park at Widdy around 10.30 and although not brilliant considering the wind was now from the north and cross-shore, the remnants of the recent wind waves was still showing. Ben and I watched for a short while and quickly concluded that what there was, wasn't going to last much longer as the tide was ebbing and would very soon be further out and exposed.

To be honest, there isn't much to write about as we both only stopped out for half an hour or so each, managing 3 or 4 unexceptional rides each. The one that did feel to have some purpose to it early on, had to be abandoned early but it didn't really affect the overall outcome. Back at the van we 'did' lunch and spent some time enjoying our remaining time home before finally setting off around 2.45pm. These journeys are never jolly occasions but we did at least have food for thought as we travelled back contemplating the knowledge that we have first refusal on a potential plot of land to build on. Although not obviously a signed nor sealed deal, it does give us hope that we may have something to work with when the time to try and get down there again arrives.
posted by wollocks at 4:12 PM