June 3rd 2001: With the wind having dropped slightly, and moved more NW, it would have been criminal to have not gone to Skeg for the second consecutive day. The swell had grown with sets generally around 3ft or so. The cross rip looked as bad if not worse, and the breeze now more cross-shore, was still stiff enough to mess it up some. It looked do-able though so I went in. Half a dozen notable rides later, having trudged each time back along the beach was enough. One in particular produced a quiet self satisfied grin as I caught it just right and raced along the line. I know I should be more grateful as at least I do have somewhere nearby to at least get wet at, but it can be such a disappointment to spend most of the time battling against these localised conditions. I am in desparate need of a classic session.

June 2nd 2001: Over three months since I last had opportunity to venture Skeggy way. There is swell building as forecast, but the strong NNW wind looked as if it would blow things out. With HT at 3pm, I decided to have a look anyway and arrive around 12.30. Hung around North Beach for a while watching, but it was small and badly messed up. Decided to drive down to Gibraltar Point to see if there was any shelter there but no dice. Headed back to NB around an hour before HT and found it looking a bit more manageable and sizier so went for it out of desparation. Three quarters of an hour later I was getting changed back out of the wettie wishing I hadn't bothered. The cross-rip was horrendous while the wind was wrecking things some more. May check it out tomorrow if this breeze drops and swings round more westerly.

April 14-18th 2001: The drought that was surfing the east coast this winter, had gotten too much. A trip west had looked 'iffy' until the last minute when the opportuntiy to head to North Devon came courtesy of Brox and family.[God Bless ya!]. There was an OTL meet-up planned for Woolacombe on the 14th and so an early start got us there for 10.30am. Couldn't find anyone who had said they'd be there and so I went in for a three hour session in 2-3 foot onshore waves. It was clear that the perfect conditions the area had had for a couple of days were on their way out; but there were waves to be ridden and some nice pleasing rides were had! Brox[&co] and Colin arrived around the time I was getting out for some refreshment and sleep. The journey, along with the chilling breeze was taking it's toll and so I didn't go back in.

The following morning I nipped into Westward Ho! from our lodgings near Bideford, to see if anything was happening. The swell had dropped some more but we all decided to go back down later in the day for the ebb. As it turned out, the breeze dropped some and the weather brightened up and so another fun session [3 hours] was had. The frustration of trying to surf Skeg' was disappearing despite the less than ideal conditions. I enjoyed some good rides and the feeling that my techniques were back up to par. Seeing my son Ben making progress on his board was also pleasing.

The following day we all trundled down to Widemouth. The breeze was more cross-shore here with a messy-ish 2-3 foot to play with. As before, another two and a half hours of fun was had before it died almost completely around mid-ebb tide. Fatigue was starting to kick in, but again I was pleased with my taking off and riding at will, which has been lacking probably since last autumn. Ben too got probably his longest ride ever.

Tuseday was an enforced rest day owing to flat sea syndrome, whereupon we settled for 2-3 hours on the last day at Westward Ho! before driving home straight after :o( It was again cross-shore [just] and we surfed the incoming tide until HT. Paddling out back was easier today too but the cross-rip near to HT forced a landing over the reef to the south. Will bear that in mind for future! :o)

February 25th 2001: Had returned to Skeg on Friday afternoon only to be disappointed that the swell; what of it, had apparently begun to drop off sufficiently to make it not worthwhile getting in. The snow showers had nothing to do with it I can assure you! However, a local weather forecast on Saturday evening had given me some hope of a fresh pulse reaching down here for today. A phone call to Coogee's was enough to confirm that there was something to ride, and so the kit was hurriedly thrown into the car. I arrived around mid tide to find Naips getting togged ready also. We would be the only two in, in nice sunny and cold offshore conditions about waist high. This session was much more rewarding, although the cross rip was rather strong, meaning much travelling down the beach! A couple of hours later, and an hour or so from HT, and it had dropped off. Time to get out.

February 22nd 2001: After a combination of illness and lack of waves, I finally got my first surfing action of the year. Got in for about an hour at Skeg' just before high tideand as darkness started to fall. With a decent swell seemingly brewing, I took my chance after a phone call to Coogee's hadn't given any real encouragement earlier in the day. I arrived to find it as clean as whistle with a nice offshore breeze adding to the ambience. As it was close to HT, the waves (about waist high) were leaving it late and close to the shore but what the hell! Feeling out of shape didn't matter, and after only a couple of notable rides, I got out feeling shattered but re-juvenated. More of the same over the next few days I hope.

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