December 16th 2000: I thought that the days of a long layoff out of the water were a thing of the past. I hadn't figured on such a lousy spell without any swell whatsoever; nothing apart from a shortlived period just before I went to Gwith', which I missed through work committments. Therefore the first serious northerly swell of the winter was a welcome sight and has ended 7 weeks without even a sniff of the sea. Should have had a look yesterday, but even then things seemed to conspire against me! The car died on me! Today's session in nice, clean 3ft if shore-dumpy conditions shook out the cobwebs and reminded me how much out of practice, and relatively unfit I've become. Managed a couple of notable rides though, and thoroughly enjoyed my near 2 hour stint. I'm not expecting it to last but I will see if I can get in again on Monday.
October 21st-27th 2000: Has been quite some time since suffering such a gap between surfs; a week at Gwithian in Cornwall put this right! Began by meeting up with Andy's Connor & Oldfield, Ziggy & Gavin Randall off the Off The Lip list-serve around lunchtime at the National Trust end of Gwith'. Caught up (or was rather caught up by) with Andy C. en route on the A30, and proceeeded to the 'Sunset' car park beforehand. Conditions weren't classic being head high and cross-shore; looked as if we'd get a wave at least. Went in with the tide ebbing, but the long lay off personally showed, and I had to suffice with surfing the re-forms, not being able to break through out the back. A second session with Ben later in the day, proved more rewarding. Slept well that night!
On Sunday, I dipped out on an earlier start which proved a mistake as the conditions were as good as you could have wished, being nice and clean. I went in by mid morning by which time it was starting to get messed by a strengthening breeze. Managed to get out back though and enjoyed a couple of good rides, before having to ride one in after drifting too close to the rocks at the NT end. It was time to meet up with Gav & Andy C again. Gav opted to go in despite it by now not being that inspiring, whilst Andy had enjoyed a nice sess' at Gwenver. Returned to the beach to find Ben enjoying getting his first experience on a proper board in the shallows. That was enough for me for now before another evening stint rounded the day off further south on the beach.
Didn't go in again till Tuesday and then Thursday where I had to make do with some pretty messed up although rideable onshore stuff. I couldn't be arsed to go looking elsewhere as the novelty of being right on top of the beach was too tempting. It was nice to be able just wandering the 200 yards or so instead of having to get in the car and all that can entail. Ben got some more stand-up experience, as did Suz. On Friday, Parky came down for an afternoon session to coincide with mid-high tide. It'd looked promising early on, but deteriorated as the weather caved in a bit. By lunchtime though, there were signs of the wind dropping and things cleaning up as the tide came closer in to more shelter. We enjoyed some head high plus stuff, with some roller coaster rides in the process. There wasn't enough face to play with, but at least we got more than some eh Matt ? <grin>
September 4th 2000: After yesterday, I figured that it would be worth another trip this morning as it was unlikely to last much beyond today. On arrival, about an hour and a half before HT, it was easily 3-4 foot and clean with the odd larger set sneaking in. Knowing Skeg' though, and my own ability level this was going to be a difficult session. As it turned out the only thing I found difficult was getting into just the right position to get the take-off right. Pretty crucial when you think about it! As a result, I was either too early or too late trying to 'get in' and so got less rides than yesterday. Still, I am less intimidated by these bigger days now and that's something. And besides, the wave here more suits the body-boarders at the moment, being as hollow and shore-dumpy as it is.
September 3rd 2000: The forecast swell had arrived, and a final check in the morning with Coogee confirmed that it had been 3-4 foot and clean(ish) on the earlier tide. I gave Brox a call and we arranged to meet at LT around 4.30pm. It was therefore disappointing to find it shin high and messy when we got there, but we decided to give it an hour anyway to see if improved. Luckily it did slightly, but the breeze was making it untidy; we went in nonetheless. Rides were there to be had though, and an hour later we came in reasonably happy with our efforts considering. It was therefore rather frustrating to find that after getting changed and having one last look before leaving, to find that it was now 2-3 foot and clean thanks to the breeze dropping and the push taking hold. Well it was getting dark! Tomorrow perhaps?
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